Following our adventure in Munich (which you can read about here) we headed to Salzburg, Austria for a few days to extend our time together as a family and celebrate my actual birthday. None of our group had been to Salzburg before, so we were excited.
If you read my last post you may remember half of us left Munich via car service, and the other half opted for the train, hoping for an efficient and atmospheric journey. As it turned out the train travelers were smooshed into an overcrowded car and forced to stand for the duration of the journey (90 minutes) thus arriving a bit cranky. Aside from the fact that it essentially rained the entire time we were there we managed to pack a whole lot of fun into our short trip.
Where we stayed: After a successful stay at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna several years ago I booked us at the Sacher in Salzburg which ranks among the most highly regarded hotels in town. While the Sacher in Salzburg is not quite as historically significant and charming as the one in Vienna it does offer a terrific location and friendly service. The Bellmen in particular were exceptionally cheerful and helpful, always ready with an umbrella to help keep us dry during our expeditions.
We opted for a Suite and found it to be comfortable and spacious but had an issue with the bathroom which was literally one step away from the left side of the bed, creating issues if one of us were to pay a visit to the facilities in the middle of the night. The black out shades created such darkness that you had to turn on a light or risk injury trying to sneak in quietly. In addition there seemed to be a real concern with housekeeping. During our stay my room was not cleaned until we “reminded” them at reception at about 4 pm upon returning to the hotel. This was the case not only for our room but one of our son’s rooms as well which was not only annoying but disappointing as well.
Booking four rooms through Virtuoso ensured that we had a 100 Euro credit per room (which came in handy for afternoon cocktails) as well as breakfast daily. Luckily all of our rooms were upgraded which was definitely appreciated; shout out to my travel agent for her persistence and attention to detail.
Regarding cocktails, the intimate bar tended to be crowded each afternoon so our group ended up spilling into the larger reception area. The servers, while amenable seemed a bit overworked and service was on the slow side.
The breakfast room is a classic example of Alpine design, the perfect setting for the Sacher Torte which waited for me at my seat the morning of my birthday. In addition to the torte (I managed to eat much of the icing off my piece) I was also presented with a gluten free pastry that was also delicious. The servers helped serenade me along with my family, the perfect way to start the day. The rest of the breakfast options were fine if not particularly exciting, though the coffee was excellent.
What we did: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart was born and raised in Salzburg and there are literally references to him everywhere so of course it made sense to plan several Mozart related activities, the most memorable being a concert of his works performed at the Shloss Mirabell, just a short walk from the hotel. The program we attended was in the beautiful Marble Hall where the acoustics are outstanding and the musicians (who were playing instruments dating back to Mozart’s time) were incredibly accomplished. To be honest I sort of had to cajole (beg) some members of our group to attend this event but in the end everyone found it immensely enjoyable.
You may not be aware that Salzburg literally translates to salt-castle which refers to the immense salt reserves located deep underground, and is the reason Salzburg historically was such a wealthy city. Called white gold back in the day, salt allowed for the preservation of food thus those who controlled the salt mines enjoyed great power and riches. There are still salt mines to visit today, and we toured the Salt Mine Berchtesgaden with our hilariously entertaining guide Leopold.
The Sacher helped arrange for this activity (including transportation as it is about 30 minutes from Salzburg) and it was a terrific way to spend half a day. Leopold not only kept us laughing but also ensured we jumped all the lines while we were there. The tour was fascinating and included an underground train, a luge type slide and a lake 500 meters below ground. I would recommend it 100%.
We couldn’t visit Salzburg and not stop by Mozart’s birthplace, and it seemed like many others had the same idea as it was mobbed. While the space was cramped the exhibits were interesting and informative, shedding light not only on Mozart’s younger years but his family and later life as well.
Aside from the cultural attractions, and even with the rain, Salzburg is a gorgeous city to wander around. There are churches to visit, gorgeous fountains, an incredibly scenic river that divides the old city from the new, and even a very dramatic Fortress (the largest one in central Europe) that looms over the city.
We took a quick funicular ride up to experience Fortress Hohensalzburg’s all-encompassing views and learn some more history of the area. It’s worth the trip!
Where we ate: There is no shortage of delicacies in Salzburg and we attempted to sample a wide selection of them.
Cafe Konditorei Fürst was actually our first stop after dropping our bags at the hotel. We ordered up a variety of pastries and learned that everyone loves whipped cream in their coffee (or hot cocoa). Fürst takes credit for creating the iconic Mozart Kugel candy (chocolate, pistachio marzipan and nougat) but we ended up sticking to pastries. We did try a variation of the candy in a competitor’s shop.
When in Austria you MUST dine on Schnitzel and we did so at Meissl & Schadn which also has a branch in Vienna. To put it bluntly, these folks are commited to Schnitzel, and you have the option of ordering in three different ways. As it happened we almost walked out prior to ultimately being seated but are grateful we didn’t because the meal was delish.
I had reserved a table of 8 at Meissl & Schadn a couple of months prior to our trip after hearing it was the ultimate Schnitzel in Salzburg. As we walked towards the hostess-stand I spotted a lovely table for eight set in the center of the restaurant. Unfortunately the hostess had other plans for us and led us not just upstairs, but to the rear corner of the upstairs deep in Siberia. I simply told her no, we would prefer the table downstairs. She replied that the table in question was reserved for another party of 8 and at that point I asked to speak with her manager. I think he knew I was not going to back down so he led us all downstairs where we settled in to enjoy our meal in the center of the restaurant. From what I gathered the hostess glared at me the entire evening, oh well!
Regardless of the drama the meal was delicious, honestly how could you go wrong with fried meat ( I opted for fish), and french fries?! The highlight was dessert, Salzburger Nockerln, an amazing sweet cloud-like soufflé with raspberry sauce presented to the entire table.
Our guide Leopold enthusiastically recommended The Goldene Kugel as a lunch destination and we were confident he wouldn’t steer us wrong. The second floor restaurant was filled with what seemed like locals and we attempted to blend right in by ordering a round of Augustiner on tap (Augustiner is actually brewed in Munich but a favorite in Salzburg as well). The food at The Goldene Kugel leaned a bit heavy but was really tasty and filling, so much so that at least two of our group opted for a nap after lunch. If you are looking for a casual and authentic lunch in Salzburg, the Golden Kugele is for you.
Animo by Aigner was the spot I chose for my birthday dinner as it seemed formal but not too formal, and intimate yet not intimidating. Run by a husband and wife and mentioned in the Michelin guide, Animo is located an Uber ride away from the Sacher and despite the somewhat uninspired location the restaurant is cozy and appealing. Hand written menus were a nice touch, and the dishes listed were inspired. They have an excellent wine list which came in handy for ordering celebratory wine. No detail was overlooked as witnessed by the adorable water glasses, each with a different character inside.
The service was attentive, and the food was delectable. My salad was almost too pretty to eat, but it tasted as good as it looked. Several members of our group opted for the pasta with shrimp and loved it, while I had monkfish which was very buttery. The chocolatey dessert ended the meal on just the right note.
As a counterpoint to the more formal Animo, the Balkan Grill was a spot deemed a mandatory stop by my boys, and the long lines at Balkan Grill were a sure sign that many others felt the same way. The specialty of the Walter, the Balkan Grill is the Bosna, a hot dog type sausage made with pork and served on white toasted bread with lots of onions, parsley and secret spices. I opted out of the Bosna, but my guys seemed to love it.
Much more my speed was dark chocolate gelato which we found at De Martin, an artisanal gelato parlor located ssteps from the center of town. The dark chocolate scoop was EXCELLENT.
The final night of our trip was spent at Zum Fidelen Affen, a historic eatery that dates back to the 17th century. Cozy and inviting it was the perfect place to wrap up the trip. Beer, pretzels, sausages and chocolate mousse for dessert, what could be better? The service was excellent and the vibe very convivial and we all loved it.
As mentioned above, Salzburg is famous for their chocolate confections which pay homage to Mozart, a true symphony of flavors, and we popped in to one of the Reber shops to taste some of their iconic chocolates. Not only is it a perfect afternoon pick me up but an ideal gift to bring home as a sweet memory of Salzburg.
Notable shopping spots: If you are interested in traditional Austrian sports (hunting) wear then Dschulnigg is the place for you. Located just across from the gelato spot I mentioned above, Dschulnigg was literally overflowing with items we couldn’t resist. We reluctantly left the hunting fox and hare taxidermy pictured below, but couldn’t resist the sheepskin gloves, antler wine holder as well as a traditional Austrian Tyrolean hat. As a side note the salespeople in all of the stores we visited were incredibly helpful and friendly.
We stumbled upon an amazing rug weaving shop, Rupert Weiss Handweberei and managed to bring a small runner back in our luggage as well as some slippers. The the quality is excellent, they ship their larger pieces, and the colors are amazingly vibrant.
One of our favorite finds was Staindl where we met Claudia, the proprietor of the intimate shop which boasts over 140 varieties of homemade jams and chutneys. We bought a large assortment of unique jams to bring home and appreciated her patience as we tried to narrow down our choices.
A special shout out to Dantendorfer a luxury clothing shop with 3 branches, one for men (where we bought a fabulous coat for my husband but didn’t capture in a photo), one for women and a more sporty shop which featured many American brands. Once again the customer service was exemplary, both considerate and enthusiastic.
We all really enjoyed Salzburg, it is a perfect destination for a long weekend, and from what I understand their Christmas Markets are especially wonderful. If you happen to be a fan of The Sound of Music, 2025 marks the 60th anniversary of the film and there are have been several special events to commemorate the milestone which I imagine will continue into the coming year,