We recently embarked on a whirlwind tour of Hong Kong, Vietnam and Bangkok and there is so much information (and inspiration) that I will break the trip up in separate posts. Because we are based in Montana during the winter months we opted to fly to Hong Kong from Los Angeles, thus necessitating an overnight stay. I booked us at the Santa Monica Proper primarily due to it’s relative proximity to LAX. Billed as a “Wellness” destination and designed with Insta-worthy decor by Kelly Wearstler the hotel definitely has a young hip vibe, with a price point that is more moderate than our usual haunts in Beverly Hills. It is under the Marriott umbrella and it was fine, not terrific, and not awful.
The staff was friendly, but very informal and slightly disjointed. The actual hotel consists of two separate buildings connected by a skybridge on level two which was somewhat annoying and required numerous elevator trips to get to and from our room. We stayed in a Landmark Grand King as we were spending so little time in the hotel and it was perfectly adequate for our needs.
On our trip home (which required a layover as well) we did return for another night and had the chance to have dinner at Calabra their roof top restaurant and was impressed by how crowded and buzzy it was on a Sunday evening. Reiterating, I do know the hotel has it’s fans but I don’t think I would return if I didn’t have a layover.
To start the vacation off on the right food we visited PS (Private Suites) at LAX where we enjoyed caviar, champagne and endless magazines (such a rare treat to read the print edition) before we were privately screened and then driven directly to our Cathay Pacific flight. I have written about the joys of PS before (with an additional location in Atlanta and soon to be branches in Dallas and Miami), it really is a treat.
Having never flown Cathay Pacific before I was a little surprised at the age and wear of their equipment, our plane definitely had some miles on it. I am not even sure if the seats actually were fully flat when extended, but even if they were they were not particularly comfortable. The route was direct though, and the service quite attentive but sadly I would give the food a C+.
One notable thing that happened was not the fault of the airline, but did make a lasting impression. Upon landing (about 90 minutes late) the Captain came over the intercom and stated “someone in the back has been a bad boy, please stay in your seats until the police can come on board and remove him from the plane”. My husband and I as well as the folks around us were oblivious as to what might have been happening in the back of the plane, but suddenly the door opened and 20 officers, some in riot gear with shields and some with guns boarded the plane, 10 down each of the aisles, hauling off the offender through the rear door. A little excitement to be sure! I still am not sure what he did but our greeter told us that frequently passengers on long haul night flights fall asleep and criminals proceed to rob the overhead compartments of their cash and/or valuables.
Where we stayed: We were visiting friends in Hong Kong and thus wanted to stay in close proximity to their home which is how we decided to book at Upper House in the Admiralty area of Hong Kong Island. Upper House is located next to the JW Marriott and high above the sprawling Pacific Place Mall feeling more like a luxury apartment building than a traditional hotel. The is no expansive lobby, but instead the reception staff is gathered in the lobby and willing to assist with any requests you might have. An example of the attention to detail: we were set to arrive at about 9:30 pm and the front desk contacted us in the car on the way from the airport to inquire whether we would like a small meal brought up to the room upon arrival, which was very much appreciated.
The color scheme of the hotel is neutral and very calming which allows the gorgeous views to be the main attraction. Since we arrived when it was dark you will have to trust me, the expansive windows allowed views from every room which was a treat.
There are several dining options on property but the only one we took advantage of was Salisterra where breakfast was served (with a view). We booked through Virtuoso so we received a breakfast credit as well as a food and beverage credit of $100 to be used during our stay. Additionally the mini bar was included (with the exception of wine and champagne) which meant we were never at risk of going hungry or thirsty.
Breakfast was delicious and beautifully presented, and the service was attentive.
Where we went: Upper House is just steps away from Hong Kong Park, a peaceful sanctuary complete with an artificial lake, an aviary and a tai chi garden.
M+ is a museum of contemporary art located across Victoria Harbour in West Kowloon. It is a sprawling building which is home to some fabulous permanent collections as well as a rotating selection of exhibitions. I particularly loved seeing the Robert Rauschenberg in Asia show (on display through 26 April) as well as a gorgeous installation by Lee Ufan. The Museum reminded me a little of the Tate in London, and has no entry fee.
While we drove to Kowloon to get to the M+ we took a ferry back to Hong Kong Island which is something you must do, it affords fabulous views for a minimal price. If you have time (alas we did not) take a ride on the AIA Ferris Wheel to get an even better perspective of the Harbour!
In order to get our full share of culture we also paid a visit to the Hong Kong Museum of Art (also free admission) where we saw two fabulous exhibits featuring snuff bottles and fans. The MoA happens to be located in close proximity to the iconic Peninsula Hotel which is absolutely worth a walk through.
The last museum we visited was the Dr. Sun Yat Sen Museum which is an extensive exploration of the life of the founder of the Republic of China and his cconnections to Hong Kong.
To balance all the culture we did do quite a bit of shopping, wandering through the extensive Pacific Place mall as well as the Arcade in the Peninsula (amazing Goyard store!) and the massive K11 Musea across from the Museum of Art. The one thing I couldn’t resist? A bag from Louis Vuitton’s new Darjeeling Ltd. collection, perfect for my upcoming safari!
(I only found this collection at the Pacific Place Mall)
The (original) Mandarin Oriental is definitely a landmark property in Hong Kong, but I feel the hotel rooms might be due for an update; that being said, the public areas are worth a visit, they are so iconic. We didn’t just stop by though, my husband booked a shave in the very old school Mandarin Barber which he thought was a real treat. To cap it off we had a pick me up in the Mandarin Cake Shop , a favorite for over 45 years with delectable pastries and incredible hot chocolate.
Where we ate: Rùn at the St. Regis in Hong Kong is a two star Michelin Cantonese restaurant in the St. Regis which created an unforgettable Lunar New Year feast for us at the behest of our incredibly generous and thoughtful host. Taking into account our (many) dietary restrictions she helped craft a special menu that highlighted the best of the Chef’s offerings.
Forgive the lack of captioning, the dishes were coming out in quick succession and I was trying to be present and enjoy every bite. The meal was delicious and the best welcome to Hong Kong we could have imagined.
Ho Lee Fook is an incredibly trendy restaurant that we were lucky to score a reservation at. It was jammed with locals as well as a few tourists thanks to the extensive media coverage Chef ArChan Chan has been receiving lately. While Ho Lee Fook also specializes in Cantonese cuisine it is sort of next gen compared to Rùn. The service was slightly inconsistent which was frustrating but the energy level was high, with Chef ArChan making several laps around the dining room throughout our meal taking the opportunity to take photos with many of her fans.
Stand out dishes included Crispy Shiitake Mushrooms with Black Vinegar Glaze, Steamed Live Razor Clams, Glass Noodles, Aged Garlic & Soy Sauce, Spring Onion and Kurobuta Pork Char Siu, Honey-Glazed & Charcoal-Grilled.
The restaurant was fun, but I think it may be slightly over-hyped.
The Dim Sum Library Keeping it Cantonese we journeyed down from the Upper House to the Pacific Place Mall to enjoy an endless assortment of perfectly cooked Dim Sum. The restaurant was packed for Sunday lunch, filled with families and groups of friends gathering to enjoy the expertly prepared dishes. The waiters were efficient (for the most part) and the food was satisfying and yummy. While not as authentic as choosing dishes from roaming carts, it was an elevated and fun experience. I would definitely recommend it, especially if you need to get your sustenance during a busy shopping day.
Duddell’s: Located on the 3rd floor of a nondescript office building Duddells is a Cantonese show stopper. The dishes are as delectable as they are photogenic, and we were fortunate to have a local sort through the menu and choose our courses for the evening incorporating many varied dishes, each subsequent bite more pleasing than the last. Here too I was concentrating more on the food rather than taking notes, but the service was outstanding, and everything we tasted was worthwhile. I would absolutely put Duddell’s on your list, but if you happen to run out of meals in HK you can sample Duddell’s at their airport location as well!
Humid with a Chance of Fish Balls Food Tour: We thought a food tour would be fun with our group, and even our native Hong Kong friends who came along learned some new and interesting information about the residential Whampoa neighborhood in Kowloon. The most remarkable feature is a large boat that seems to be docked smack dab in the middle of the neighborhood, making it a very identifiable landmark. It was here that we met our guide Virginia who over the course of 3 1/2 hours took us to very off the beaten track locations in order to sample some local fare (including fishballs). Virginia had loads of information to share, and although I was not thrilled by all the food offerings (particularly the Guilinggao- turtle gelatin, which is purported to have numerous health benefits), though I did love the mochi balls, and the fish balls as well. If you want to gain a broader perspective of Hong Kong cuisine I would book a tour with Virginia. We booked a private tour but she does there are group tours as well.
Our trip to Hong Kong was filled with exciting tastes and sights; we really loved the city. It helped to have such generous friends who shared their perspective of this wonderful place as well as incredible hospitality. Visiting during the Lunar New Year was an added treat and may inspire us to return again at the same time in the future. Many people wax nostalgic about the “old” Hong Kong during the time it was under British Rule and while I know I would have adored it then, it is still pretty special.
Pictured below is a traditional Lunar New Year assortment of candy to usher in a sweet new year, we can only hope!!
Next stop in our adventure is Hanoi- stay tuned by subscribing (it’s free)!