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I am just back from a whirlwind weekend in Rome where I was delighted to discover a (very) brand new hotel which is part of the Shedir Collection, owners of the Hotel Vilon where I stayed two years ago when I last visited (you can read my review here). There is nothing I love more than being the first one to stay somewhere special, and in the case of Palazzo Roma my friends and I really were some of the very first guests, and the initial experience was not without a little drama.

I am not sure about you, but I am the type of traveller that needs everything planned out, with very few details left to chance, especially when it comes to hotels and transfers; with regard to restaurants and activities I am a little more easy-going, but for me, planning ahead makes traveling stress-free. Keeping this in mind, when I received word from my travel agent the night before departure that the hotel was having issues with their heat and that we may have to come up with plan B, I was not happy. While I like novel experiences, I do not like being inconvenienced or disappointed (at least I am self-aware).

Since I was the designated planner of our time in Rome it was a little more stressful, as I didn’t want to disappoint my friends with a sub par hotel experience. Upon landing I received an update that it seemed as though the Palazzo Roma had managed their heating issue and they were ready for us. They were kind enough to arrange a greeter at the airport (which was a blessing as immigration was a madhouse when we arrived) as well as a transfer to the hotel. The deal was if we arrived and were dissatisfied they had rooms for us at a nearby sister property, Umilta 36 which seemed reasonable. When the car pulled up to the hotel on the Via del Corso the first thing I noticed was that they had not yet installed a front door which didn’t make for a great first impression, in addition the small lobby area was very underwhelming.

We were met by the GM as well as several very amenable staff members and they convinced us to come upstairs to the main part of the hotel before we passed judgement. We were hungry and a little cranky so when they offered to feed us and provide cappuccinos we followed right along, and we were glad we did. 

As soon as our bellies were full and the caffeine was coursing through our veins we were given a tour of the Palazzo. The decor was a perfect juxtaposition of classic Roman Palace and modern whimsy. Since the hotel had so recently opened (there were actually a couple of other rooms occupied) the one thing the hotel was lacking was a palpable energy, but the finishes were enough to keep us interested.

Before we agreed to have the bellmen drop the bags in our respective rooms we did ask to go see the alternate hotel, to be sure that we weren’t making a mistake. Rosario Rubino the very kind and patient General Manager took us on a short field trip down the street to check out the Umilta, and long story short we unanimously agreed to make the Palazzo Roma our home away from home for the weekend. 

My suite was very large, cheerful and bright. Everything was impeccably clean and new, one benefit of being an early guest; in addition each and every employee we encountered went above and beyond to ensure our stay was comfortable. Any hesitations we had about the hotel initially were dispelled.

The public spaces were just as unique as the rooms, and in truth we kind of liked having the hotel almost to ourselves. Although it seemed as though we went through a lot upon our arrival, by the time we were settled and ready to explore it was only 10:30 am! 

The plan was to soldier through the entire day and pack in as much as we could, there was to be no napping! One of the best features of the Palazzo Roma is it’s location, we found that it is so centrally located that we were never farther than a 20 minute walk from anywhere, and given that it was about 60 degrees and sunny for the duration of our stay we walked everywhere. First up on our agenda, shopping! Pointing ourselves towards the Spanish Steps and the Via Condotti we explored just about every luxury spot you could think of. As we grew a bit weary we took a break at Hosteria del Mercato (recommended by the sales woman at Gucci) and refueled with Spritz’s and salads. 

We shopped until the sun went down and then walked back to the hotel to get changed for our dinner reservation at Roscioli which impressed me so much on my last trip that I had to return. For those who don’t want to travel all the way to Rome for a taste of their incredible Italian Salumi you can pay them a visit in their newly opened outpost in New York City, Roscioli NYC. The one negative about Roscioli is that if you are gluten free they do not offer a gf pasta option, but to be honest I had no trouble finding plenty to eat and drink. There are two camps as far as where to request a table, I have really enjoyed dining in the wine cellar which is very cozy (cramped) and buzzy, but others prefer eating upstairs alongside the cases of meat and cheese. 

All four of us loved the array of dishes we ordered, and sated and happy we walked back to the hotel amidst glorious fountains and ruins (in Rome there is literally a spectacular attraction at every turn). We succeeded in our plan to not waste a minute on our first day, and subsequently were all pretty exhausted, so once we got back to the hotel we tumbled into bed.

It turns out our strategy worked, and we all enjoyed a good nights sleep. When we gathered for breakfast there were even more tempting options that were brought out to us in a steady stream (breakfast was included in our rate) which helped fuel us up for another busy day.

Our planned itinerary included several hours with Daniele, the tour delightful guide we used on our last trip to Rome. If you are interested in his contact information please reach out to me directly. Having never been to the Borghese Gallery we thought it would be a perfect way to spend Sunday morning, and we were right. The Borghese is filled with unbelievable treasures, but we were all most impressed by the collection of sculptures by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, each one was more magnificent than the last. In truth all of the gorgeous sculptures, paintings, mosaics and frescos were an overload of beauty.

While it seemed impossible to compete with the wonders we saw inside the gallery, we took a stroll through the gardens (because it was early February not much was blooming) but the unseasonably warm and sunny weather was enchanting. 

No surprise, all the art and strolling had built up our appetite and we let Daniele pick a place where we hoped we would be the only Americans and he did not let us down. Osteria Delle Coppelle located in a square very much off the beaten path was filled with large tables of Italian Families and friends enjoying their Sunday lunch. It was perfect! Most importantly they offered gluten free pasta so I was finally able to indulge in a plate of cacio e pepe.

Following lunch the consensus was we needed to take a quick peek at the Trevi Fountain and enjoy a gelato before Daniele dropped us off for our next adventure, so we parked right near Don Nino and ordered up some truly delicious gelato (dark chocolate and mint chocolate for me) and then found an open spot to take a few photos at the fountain.

My travel agent had arranged a unique opportunity to enjoy afternoon tea at an unbelievable property near the Piazza Navona. All we knew was that it had been Pope Innocent X’s apartment in the mid 1600s, and it was adjacent to the Sant’ Agnese in Agone Church. Figuring he has never led me astray we had Daniele drop us off at the apartment at about 4:30 where we were met by the property owners Stefano and Giorgia Barbini who proceeded to tour us through the The Holy Deer Lodge; a magnificent property they have painstakingly restored.  Boasting two stunning bedrooms the luxurious apartment accommodates 5 people, and by the time we left we were all trying to figure out when we could return to Rome for an unforgettable stay. My travel agent can assist in booking this special property, if you are interested please contact me directly. 

Following our lengthy visit to the Holy Deer Lodge (we just couldn’t get enough of all of the details, plus Stefano and Giorgia were the ultimate hosts) we didn’t have time to return back to the hotel before our 8 o’clock dinner reservation so we shopped just a little bit more (it is sale time in Italy) and then walked to La Matriciana dal 1870 which is a seriously “Old School” classic Roman Trattoria. From the antique Berkel that greeted us at the door to the most professional and friendly waiters the entire experience was perfection, and the food was outrageously good as well. When the table next to us received a plate of perfectly fried potato chips with their drinks we followed their lead and did not regret it. The gluten free spaghetti was absolutely to die for (Spaghetti con alici fresche, puntarelle e pecorino- with garlic, olive oil, anchovies, endive, and pecorino), and the fresh mozzarella and tomatoes was simply delectable. It was all so amazing, I would go back in a heartbeat. Following dinner we actually had had enough walking so we called a cab and headed back to the hotel. Before retiring we were enticed into having some prosecco at the hotel bar (or as we considered it, our private bar) and then went right to sleep.

As our time in Rome was quickly coming to a close we couldn’t resist a quick visit to the Colosseum, so following an early morning cappuccino in the room we set out for a brisk walk, encountering spectacular archaeological wonders every step of the way. It was the perfect end to our short stay, though we certainly packed a lot in to our 48 hours. 

Rome is one of the most magical cities on earth, it is gorgeous and friendly and filled with history and scrumptious food. Even just a weekend is worth it to immerse yourself in its pleasures. If you love intimate boutique hotels with impeccable service and stylish flair, consider a stay at Palazzo Roma, you won’t regret it.

Part of the reason we really indulged during our visit to Rome was because we were headed to a luxury wellness spa where we would be leading a very clean (yet indulgent) 5 days sans freshly fried potato chips and Negronis. Stay tuned for my review of Palazzo Fiuggi!