We were so sad to leave Singita Lebombo (you can read about our stay here) but felt consoled by the fact that we had a few more decadent days to spend in the wine country before we were due to fly home. There has been an extensive history of wine production around Cape Town dating back to the mid 1600s and while the majority of the production doesn’t make it to the US we have sampled enough to know there are many great producers and varieties. I wasn’t sure that splitting up our time in Cape Town was the best idea, but it turned out to be a perfect end to the trip.
We landed back in Cape Town mid-afternoon and headed right to Stellenbosch, an equally well known wine producing region so that we could check out the town before heading to Franschhoek. Both these areas were originally settled by the Dutch, so the architecture is exceedingly quaint and pleasing. Stellenbosch is home to Stellenbosch University specializing in agricultural programs, specifically the study of AgriScience so the population in town is very young, and the bars and restaurants reflect the demographic. We spent about 30 minutes walking around and to be honest the highlight was getting a gelato at Moro which was a pretty strong import from Italy. The town didn’t really do it for me, and I was happy we were staying in Franschhoek. There are several other well established areas specializing in wine production, but those are the main ones.
When initially planning the trip the options of where to stay and what estates to visit seemed overwhelming but our trip planner knew just the perfect itinerary, letting me know that La Residence in Franschhoek would be the ideal place to base our stay. La Residence is part of The Royal Portfolio, the small privately owned hotel chain that also includes The Silo, the excellent hotel we stayed at in Cape Town. Consistently topping the lists of the Best Hotels in the World La Residence has a big reputation to live up to, and I have to say it really was out of this world.
The very ebullient, over the top welcome by the staff as we drove up set the stage for an incredibly memorable visit where everything from the accommodations to the setting to the food and most of all the service was just perfection. I can count on one hand the hotels that are in this elite category and it was truly a treat to get to experience it. Visually every aspect of the hotel was stunning, particularly the flock (otherwise known as an ostentation) of peacocks that roam the property, and are fondly called disco chickens by the staff. Speaking of the staff, Ayrton and Hoon, both managers, went above and beyond to not only make us feel at home, but to take care of any and all requests with an attitude that all things were possible. Change of plans? No problem! An off menu Bacon Cheeseburger with an incredible bottle of wine? No problem! A last minute blow-dry request in the room? No problem! A pink G & T overlooking the lake? No problem! Extra cozy blankets because the wind picked up? No problem! By far the best suggestion they made to us though was to keep our room until 7 pm since our flight wasn’t until 9:30, “really” they said, it’s no problem!
When reading about the owners of The Royal Portfolio, Liz and Phil Biden (no relation), I learned that Liz Biden’s favorite hotel and the inspiration for many aspects of La Residence ranging from decor to the high level of customer service happens to be my very favorite hotel in the world as well, Villa Feltrinelli so really it all makes perfect sense as to why it I loved it so much!
La Residence consists of 11 suites and 4 villas, and from what I could see, they are all spectacular, especially ours. The aesthetic is over-the-top, but in a tasteful and sophisticated way. The combination of sumptuous fabrics and interesting antiques ensures you are constantly surprised by something special.
When it was time for a sundowner (the safari tradition carries over to La Residence) our server Mario, who boasted he was employee of the month, made sure we were taken care of to the nth degree.
Breakfast at La Residence was also extra special, a chance to catch up with the management as well as fill our stomachs with delicacies. After breakfast we made sure to explore the extensive grounds and allow for digestion.
We were tempted to dine only at La Residence but we knew there was so much more to explore outside the property. La Petite Colombe, the little sister of La Colombe where we visited at the beginning of the trip is located in Franschhoek and is less formal than La Colombe, billing itself as more “accessible”. As it turns out it was ultimately quite a production with the meal stretching well beyond 3 hours; sadly the service was not in the same league as La Colombe, and some of the theatrics seemed a bit forced. At one point my husband felt like waving the white flag of surrender, he couldn’t eat another bite or witness another clever culinary display, and made me promise there would be no more fancy prix-fixe meals in the near future. If you are visiting Cape Town and want to experience one extraordinary meal from the La Colombe group, I would recommend sticking with the original which really impressed us both.
I do appreciate that the food was visually stunning, but it just seemed a bit forced.
Below is an example of an overwrought presentation and dish typical of the rest of the menu. It was just too much (and not particularly tasty). If you listen carefully you can make out her description.
Finally it was time to go back to the hotel, it had been a looooong meal.
Pigcasso is an adorable animal sanctuary in close proximity to La Residence. It is kitschy and absolutely worth a stop to visit the small café and admire the artwork made by the world’s most talented pig (may he rest in peace). Thankfully Pigcasso has a successor, with all proceeds of the artwork helping to support the rescued animals.
Another worthwhile activity is walking into the cute town of Franschhoek which is filled with galleries, shops and restaurants all bustling with shoppers and browsers alike.
Next on the agenda was the Franschhoek Motor Museum which is absolutely worth a visit. Our guide Richard who toured with us at the beginning of the trip was back to explore the Winelands with us and make sure we didn’t miss a thing. The Motor Museum is fascinating, and allows you to view the history of automobiles in a very picturesque setting
Lest you think we quickly forgot what we said about not wanting to eat any more elaborate meals, we had been anticipating lunch at Babel the entire trip. Babel is not just delicious farm to table cuisine, it is also absolutely gorgeous and IG worthy; thankfully it is also healthy-ish. Located at Babylonstoren, one of the oldest working Cape Dutch Farms in Franschhoek, where you find yourself surrounded by beauty in all forms, whether the gardens, the vineyards, the restaurant or the shops. Our meal (and experience) here was outstanding, and I would recommend it 100%. By the way, we were so full from our lunch we cancelled our reservation for dinner at had a late night snack at La Residence instead.
Visiting wineries and vineyards is the main activity in Franschhoek and with a 9:30 pm flight home we decided to dedicate our last full day to tasting. We got started early with a 10 am visit to Anthonij Rupert, and really enjoyed the flights of wines we were offered. One bonus, they had a showroom of fabulous handbags and leather goods on property, Okapi which meant I could drink AND shop!
Our second stop was one of our guide Richard’s favorites, Oldenburg, a smaller more modern property (actually located in Stellenbosch) which featured some real gems, and as a bonus we had the opportunity to chat with the winemaker. There are so many delectable wines, most of which are not imported into the States but fortunately we brought home order forms so we can ship cases home if we desire.
The last stop of the day was at Delaire Graff Estate for lunch and the chance to view their unbelievable art collection. While the signature restaurant Delaire is the more formal (and famous) restaurant, we wanted to try Hōseki, their new Japanese spot in order to keep it lighter. The food and service was excellent, and the entire property was really magnificent.
Laurence Graff’s personal art collection is displayed throughout the estate and consists of works created by South African artists. In addition the gardens are stunning, the perfect backdrop for some astounding pieces including work by Anton Smit, Lionel Smit and Dylan Lewis. We were fortunate to have a private tour with one of the curators on the estate, and it was truly a memorable experience.
Two weeks flew by in the blink of an eye, and it was time to leave South Africa but we vowed we would return in the not too distant future. It was truly an unforgettable trip, one that surpassed our expectations and left me with indelible memories as well as a new top five favorite hotel, La Residence.
Hopefully you will have the chance to visit Africa, it truly is life changing.
Putting it high on my list!