Our second destination on this whirlwind trip was Kyoto, a more serene city than Tokyo but just as enticing. We last visited Kyoto in 2022 (which you can read about here) was a great introduction to this amazing city and we were anxious to continue our exploration. In keeping with our desire for accommodations that skewed less “American” we opted for the The Hiramatsu which I LOVED. The Hiramatsu is on the absolute other end of the spectrum from the Four Seasons where we stayed the last time we were in town and proved to be the perfect combination of luxury and authenticity and intimacy versus the Four Seasons.
Upon arrival we were met with tea and sweets to complete check in, and then led to our rooms. I had chosen the Hiramatsu Suite and was not disappointed, it was unbelievably spacious and perfectly appointed. The best part? The bed was the equivalent of two queens joined together, it was massive and incredibly comfortable. In addition we had a very roomy bathroom, a sitting room, a dining area, a workspace and a coffee bar. Our sons’ room was also quite spacious and comfortable. The best part? The price was a fraction of the Four Seasons which was definitely an added bonus. The hotel is located in the Nakagyo ward and perfectly situated to explore charming neighborhoods on foot, or a quick taxi or subway ride away from cultural landmarks.
The common rooms at The Hiramatsu are pleasant and welcoming whether for a cocktail or just to sit and relax.
There are no shortage of terrific dining options in Kyoto, but we felt we really hit it out of the park with La Bûche, a Michelin starred French inspired restaurant presided over by a husband and wife featuring delicacies (many of which were foraged by the chef himself) cooked over fire. While this description may sound overwrought, it was perfect in every way; welcoming, unpretentious, reasonably priced for the quality received, and an unforgettable dining adventure. One thing to keep in mind, the restaurant is in the Ohana area of Kyoto, about a 25 minute cab ride out of the center of the city.
As soon as we entered we were made to feel so appreciated and comfortable; there was just one stand alone table which we occupied and then seats at the counter where another couple sat. There is only the option to dine from the chef’s menu but they happily made accommodations to my gluten-free pescatarian diet with advance notice.
If you look closely at the menu below you will see non-familiar items (at least to our Western palate) including deer heart and badger; to be honest I wasn’t too upset to be served replacements for those dishes but my family happily ate them and declared them delicious. If you are visiting Kyoto and really want an outstanding dining experience I would reach out and reserve with them well in advance, you will not regret it.
The Hiramatsu kept up their winning streak with their excellent breakfast service which is included in the room rate. On the first morning we all opted for the Western breakfast which actually has some Italian influences mixed in to the menu. Risotto and cappellini for breakfast brought great joy to my husband, and actually made sense once we learned that the Hiramatsu has an Italian restaurant on property, La Luce which I bet is delicious though we didn’t have a free meal to spare.
Bellies full we buundled up and ventured out to Nijo Castle which dates back to 1603 and was home to the first Shogun of the Edo period. It was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994 and is quite impressive. Equally impressive are the massive carp which happily devoured the fish food available for purchase.
From Nijo Castle we headed by subway to the Kyoto Railway Museum which is a train lovers paradise, and judging by the crowds there is no shortage of train buffs in Japan; understandable as the Japanese truly innovated and revolutionized railway travel. We could have stayed all day, but after a couple of hours we were getting a little punchy and had to boost our flagging blood sugar.
We divided up for lunch, three set off for Ramen and my youngest son and I decided to go to one of the oldest soba restaurants in Kyoto (though we were so hungry we had to grab an onigiri on the way).
Inexpensive and quick, Yoshimora offers many different set lunch options, I am usually thrilled with soba because it is gluten free and a relatively healthy choice but in this case I can only say it was good, not great. I was happy to have rounded it our with the onigiri before hand.
More satisfying was our dinner at Ten You a tempura kaiseki restaurant which is so good it has earned one Michelin star. My husband loves tempura so this restaurant was really for him, though we all enjoyed it. Bite after bite came out in quick succession and we all ended up scalding our mouths because we couldn’t wait for that first taste but it was worth it, the meal was simple and delicious, and the tempura batter was absolutely perfect.
Day 2 at the Hiramatsu we all decided to try the Japanese breakfast and it was excellent. We dined in the library and had the room to ourselves, luckily the table was spacious as the food kept on coming.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple is one of the most iconic World Heritage attractions in Kyoto and while we had been there before we wanted to return. One of the main tips is to visit as early as possible and avoid the crowds, it is truly magnificent to wind your way through the property and appreciate the beauty and relative solitude.
As an antithesis to Kiyomizu-dera we decided to pay a visit to a tiny museum, renowned Japanese potter Kawai Kanjiro’s home and studio. I really love discovering all of these small special places, they offer a completely different perspective from the usual hit parade of attractions. Kanjiro’s works are groundbreaking in their adorable cartoonish form as well as their glazing
Our daily need for a caffeine boost was fulfilled at Ippodo‘s main tea shop where we all enjoyed a perfect cup of matcha as well as some very sweet treats. If you are a fan of tea you have surely heard of Ippodo, they even have outlets in the States where you can get your fix.
Kinkakuji is one of Kyoto’s most popular sites, a Buddhist temple whose top two floors are covered in gold leaf. It is truly breathtaking and visiting at sunset only enhances the experience. Kinkakuji is crowded, but we had no problem finding a peaceful spot to just soak in the serenity and beauty.
We saved the fanciest dinner in Kyoto for our final night. We had reserved at Otagi which has received tremendous accolades as well as two Michelin stars. When we finally found the entrance to the restaurant (we had to be guided there by a friendly receptionist at a nearby club) we were greeted warmly and ushered back to our private room. Once we settled in we were taken care of by the most amenable staff who served a parade of dishes (along with handwritten index card translations) that were both visually appealing as well as delectable. Below are just a sampling of photos as I really attempted to be present rather than chronicling each bite. The meal did get off to a shaky start as the first dish was the soft roe (aka sperm sacs) of the deadly pufferfish but it was much tastier than when we last encountered it at Kibun in Tokyo. Not only did each dish outshine the last as the meal progressed, but the staff became more jovial; it really was a terrific experience, well worth the advance planning you have to undertake in order to get a reservation.
Our last stop in Kyoto was the Kitana Tenmangu Shrine which holds a massive flea market on the 25th of each month, even on Christmas. We had a train to catch in the early afternoon so we arrived by 9 am and wandered our way through the stalls mostly admiring the goods, but also noshing on assorted snacks including my favorite, dried persimmons. We made sure to rub the head of the statue of the Reclining Cow in hopes that is would grant us wisdom as is the myth.
Our last meal in Kyoto (in the train station) was the only disappointing one of the trip, and frankly we were lucky that our son didn’t experience severe gastrointestinal distress because of it. As we were picking plates of very subpar sushi off the conveyor belt he decided to try their special of the day; the horse meat sushi/horse fat sushi combo. I am all for experimenting with foods of other cultures but this seemed really suspect to me. My husband and I were seated together and our three sons were down the counter so I only learned of his choice after we left. Needless to say I was ready with the Immodium, but he seemed to have weathered it without incident.
The mediocre sushi behind us we boarded the bullet train to Okayama where we would transfer by ferry to Naoshima, the Art Island. Stay tuned!
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[…] journey began in Kyoto (which you can read about here) when we boarded the Bullet Train to Okayama, the closest city in which to transfer to Naoshima […]