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Following Milan we headed to Bologna which provided us with endless opportunities to eat, drink and drive fast.

Where we stayed: The Grand Hotel Majestic Già Baglioni

The Grand Hotel Majestic is a landmark hotel in Bologna that dates back to the early 20th century, and is most certainly the nicest place to stay in town. It has a fascinating history which you can read about here if you are interested.

We had stayed at the Grand about 8 years ago and found it quirky and definitely “old school” and we were delighted to find it hadn’t changed a bit. What was new was the inconvenience of the street in front of the hotel being completely torn up in the midst of what seems to be a replacement of the water pipes which run below ground. The bellmen seem to be handling it with aplomb and are ready to direct guests through the side entrance and deliver you to reception with a smile.

As you can see, the decor in the public spaces is a regal red which really makes a statement in setting the tone for a memorable stay.

We booked a junior suite which seemed a throwback to what Italian luxury used to be, and honestly I liked it. The housekeeping service was attentive, the bed incredibly comfy and the Etro amenities in the bathroom smelled delicious. In addition, even with the inconvenience of the street being under construction the location is ideal. Bologna is very much a walking city and the Grand Hotel is smack in the middle of the action.

The breakfast (which was included in our room rate) was extensive and varied with many local pastries as well as a short menu of eggs, omelets, and other cooked dishes. Service was cheerful and earnest.

Where we ate:

Keeping it “old school” for our dining choices we opted to go to Ristorante Diana on our first night in town. Just a short walk from the hotel, Diana has been serving patrons since 1909. If you have been a subscriber for a long time you know I love “old-school” and Ristorante Diana really fits the bill. There is nothing that makes me happier than dinnerware with a logo and at Diana you can’t possibly forget where you are eating.

The food is classic Bolognese cuisine: tortellini, mortadella, and of course ragù alla Bolognese. I was very satisfied with my radicchio risotto and sautéed puntarelle as well as a “healthy” appetizer of broccoli, potatoes and a mustardy sauce. My husband too was very pleased by his choices, nothing fancy, just solid interpretations of the classics.

We washed it all down with the wine of the region the lightly fizzy Lambrusco, which I happen to love.

If you need a pick me up while you are out exploring the Porticoes of Bologna (more on those later) take a little detour to Salumeria Simoni, just steps off the Palazzo Maggiore in the center of the historic market area. Simoni has several outposts where you can stock up on their house made specialties, but there is one spot where you can pull up a chair and order a generous sampling of all of the delicacies available including Parmiagiana (of varying ages), pickled vegetables, assorted salumi (including a variety of Mortadellas) as well as Porchetta. I nibbled on Parmigiana and drank Rosé Lambrusco while my husband worked on the rest of it, managing to eat quite a bit of it! Keep in mind, this was right before dinner. As they say…when in Bologna!

Franco Rossi was highly recommended, and while it isn’t as old as Diana it is uniquely Emilian, featuring iconic dishes and very solicitous service. We were told to ask for Guiseppe, and so we did; part showman, part sommelier and 100% enthusiastic. The atmosphere was excellent, but the food a tad disappointing. The apps and pasta(s) were tasty, yes my husband ordered two; but the entrees left something to be desired. My fish encrusted with pistachios was terribly overcooked, and my husband’s Cotoletta alla Bolognese (like an Italian Schnitzel) was smothered in a disconcerting white sauce (still not exactly sure what it was).

A little farther afield was Laboratorio e Cucina Ceresi, a small gem of a restaurant in what seems to be an office park in San Giovanni in Persiceto. This may seem totally random, but we were brought there by our host for the day, Fabio Lamborghini (much more on him shortly) as it is one of his favorite spots near the Lamborghini Factory. If you decide to visit for a factory tour and check out the museum, make a detour to Ceresi for lunch, you won’t regret it. The service was excellent (they definitely dote on Mr. Lamborghini) and they made a real effort to put together a vegetarian plate for me. The affogato was a perfect way to end the meal.

What we did: Bologna is a food lovers paradise and the number one activity to be honest is wandering around the historic Quadrilatero gazing at stunning storefronts which showcase the most tempting displays imaginable. It is almost impossible not to be tempted to buy/taste absolutely everything.

Lest you think there is only food shopping in Bologna I would urge you to check out Galleria Cavour for luxury brands as well as the FR Boutique (an amazing curated designer shop) and WP Store (awesome selection of Barbour Collabs).

As I mentioned earlier in the article, Bologna is an incredibly picturesque city famous not only for having the oldest University in Italy and the most variations of tortellini, but also for a tremendous number of porticos that line just about every major street in the city. It is a lovely city to wander on foot but I was dismayed to find a large number of homeless people camped out under the porticos on just about every street. There is also a great deal of graffiti which is such a shame. On the one hand the city is incredibly vibrant and alive due to the large population of students, but on the other there is an undercurrent of grittiness that is disconcerting. While I never felt in danger I would be mindful of your surroundings at night.

The best for last…we made the trip to Bologna for a very special experience we “won” at a charity auction a few months ago, a unique and special day spent with Fabio Lamborghini, nephew of Lamborghini’s founder Ferruccio Lamborghini. Included in our package was a driver who would pick us up at the hotel and drop us at Lamborghini for a visit to the museum as well as a factory tour where we watched the production of the enormously successful SUV, the Urus (no photos allowed).

The first stop was the museum where the staff (and some of the cars) were celebrating Movember , a movement meant to raise awareness of prostate cancer. The history of the company is fascinating, and the founder was truly a visionary. Once we moved on to the factory we received an education as to the scrutiny each car receives as it is built, literally traveling from team to team of expert engineers. The factory is spotless and a study in efficiency, with each car receiving love and attention throughout every step of the process.

Following the impressive factory tour we headed across the street to the Bull Bar (if you were wondering why the symbol of the Lamborghini is a bull one reason is that Ferruccio was a Taurus, the other is that in his lifelong rivalry with Enzo Ferrari he wanted a to be sure that his logo was stronger than Ferrari’s logo, the horse). At the Bull Bar we met up with our host Fabio who was the consummate Italian gentleman, a perfect representative of the Lamborghini empire. In all truth Audi purchased Lamborghini in 2011 and it is no longer owned by the family, but Fabio continues to serve as an unofficial ambassador as well as the face of his own luxury lifestyle brand. After our espresso break my husband was given the opportunity to drive a Huracan not with Fabio but with a professional driver.

Believe it or not the test drive wasn’t done on a dedicated track but rather on the public roads surrounding the factory. My husband was told “open it up as fast as you feel comfortable”, so there he was happily zooming down the “highway” at 150 miles per hour. It turns out that each car produced at Lamborghini takes an initial spin around town so the locals are used to it.

Following the exhilarating drive we dined with Fabio and he regaled us with stories of his family history as well as the timeline of the company. After lunch we parted ways, Fabio off to charm another visitor as we headed to the last stop of the day, Pagani Automobili. If you are a car aficionado you are probably familiar with Pagani, but if you are like me you have never heard of this ULTRA luxury bespoke brand located in Modena. The cars are spectacular, truly works of art. I think I might be more tempted to put one in my home as artwork rather than consider driving one.

We had a fabulous stay in Bologna enjoying not just the food(!!) and wine, but our special opportunity experiencing the rarefied world of luxury automobiles.

Stay tuned, next stop- Modena!