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When planning our recent itinerary I knew that Hong Hong (read about our stay here) and Thailand were definite destinations, but I wasn’t 100% sold on Vietnam. In the past few years Vietnam has become an increasingly popular hot spot but in truth the reviews from my (trusted traveler) friends have been all over the map. Some really disliked their time in Vietnam while others loved it. The consensus among those who loved it generally focuses on how inexpensive it is, which I can appreciate, but that isn’t generally my main motivation (being honest here). My husband has been anxious to visit (he is more swayed by the cost saving aspect than I am) so we decided to add quick stops in Hanoi and Danang to get a sense of how Vietnam is currently trying to position itself as a luxury destination.

One thing you may have noticed by now is that while I am game to visit all kinds of places both high and low, I draw the line at my accommodations; where I stay has to be deluxe. I am no longer “young” so I feel unapologetic in my desire for extraordinary hotel stays.

In the case of Hanoi there are two renowned 5 star hotels in the French Quarter right across the street from one another, the Sofitel Legend Metropole and the Capella Hanoi, both offering rooms which are stylish, luxurious and relatively well priced. I opted to book us at the Capella due to the signature Bill Bensley design which is both completely maximalist and a creative tribute to both the 1920s and the famous Hanoi Opera. Coming from the understated Upper House in Hong Kong the Capella was a bit of a sensory overload, but I loved it.

Upon arrival we were met by our driver whose car was stocked with refreshing Capella made Kombucha as well as dried mango and Vietnamese cashews, all very much appreciated following our early morning flight from Hong Kong. Accompanying us was a representative from the hotel who made sure we were comfortable throughout the short journey. Our approach from the airport passed through a vast array of living conditions from entirely rural to quite basic, though as we approached the Historic French Quarter there was a big jump to modernity.

The Hotel: We pulled up the hotel and were met by several staff members who whisked our bags away and led us to the very atmospheric lobby where we were presented with a welcome cocktail and quickly checked in. First impressions? We were very happy.

The Room: We booked ourselves into one of the Capella’s specialty suites named after Alice Regnault a French actress and courtesan. There is an even more extravagant level of Suites that I did not decide to book, so I felt somewhat virtuous. The room(s) were generous in size and lavishly decorated; there was even an extra powder room (always my favorite extra amenity). The non-alcoholic drinks as well as snacks in the mini-bar were complimentary and there was an additional welcome and turn down treat as well. All in all, I would rate it an A.

It is not just the rooms at the Capella that are over the top, the pool was truly a show-stopper. I am not generally a swimmer, but I actually was a little tempted to take a dip.

Dining/Drinking at the Capella: There are several options for dining at the Capella and we dined primarily in their main restaurant Backstage which specializes in Northern Vietnamese cuisine. There is a very well respected Sushi restaurant on premises called Koki which I would have liked to have tried but it is closed on Sunday/Monday, the nights we were there.

If you are like me and don’t like subtlety you will love the interior of Backstage, and as an added bonus the service is excellent and the food delicious, especially their Bún Chà as enjoyed by my husband below.

Another added perk is the daily Happy Hour in the Diva’s Lounge for guests of the hotel featuring complimentary cocktails, snacks, and entertainment. Consistent with all the encounters we had with staff during our stay everyone went above and beyond to make sure we were happy and comfortable.

Breakfast (a perk when booking with Virtuoso) included a make your own Bánh Mì bar as well as a large assortment of tropical fruits and assorted pastries. There is also an extensive menu including Western and Vietnamese specialty dishes. They take their coffee very seriously here and I can attest to the fact that Vietnamese Coffee (with condensed milk) is not only delicious it can double as rocket fuel, the sugar and caffeine combo will cure whatever ails you.

To be honest the experience at the Capella made for a compelling argument to never leave the hotel (we ended up dining there our second night as well), but I am getting a little ahead of myself.

We did venture out for one non-hotel restaurant meal: you are surely familiar with the Michelin guide and their strict guidelines for inclusion on their list but I question whether the qualifications are much more lax in Vietnam as there are dozens of restaurants with either one star or Michelin recognition. We opted to try out The East which is designated as Bib Gourmand by Michelin and provided an extra adventure as we were able to walk there from our hotel.

Cut to the chase it was indeed quite reasonably priced but the sole highlight for me was the coconut water. The food was average at best, and the service was close to non-existent. It turns out it actually was an adventure to get there: aside from dodging swarms of motor scooters as well as people enjoying their dinners on the sidewalk we found ourselves surrounded by a pack of small dogs who followed us for a couple of blocks. My husband made sure to tell me we were taking a taxi back to the hotel.

Walking around Hanoi: When I mention that Hanoi is positioning itself as a luxury destination it is because there are very large outposts of Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Valentino, Prada as well as watch brands such as Chopard, IWC and Richard Mille steps away from the Capella. A little farther afield there is a luxury mall called Trang Tien Plaza that features a host of other high-end brands. I have to say that there is a true dichotomy between these exclusive offerings and the general population and living conditions that I saw in Hanoi. Perhaps it is actually on the upswing, but it seems to me there is a long way to go.

We spent quite a bit of time exploring the area around the hotel and found parts of it charming, especially the large picturesque lake in the center of the city (Hoàn Kiếm Lake) that we ambled around several times along with many other tourists. During my pre-trip research I had seen on Instagram that the thing to do in Hanoi is to visit the old section of the city and get matching silk pajamas made to order overnight, so we decided to explore that possibility, but disappointingly the quality was so sketchy at the shops we came upon that it was an easy no for me. Additionally if buying fake designer items is your thing there are dozens of shops selling just about anything you might want, but we avoided those.

A Highlight in Hanoi: Our Curious About Vietnam food tour with Mark was definitely one of the best things we did while in Hanoi. We booked a 4 hour private tour on the recommendation of a (foodie) friend and we were glad we did. Mark, while only 24 has tremendous enthusiasm, knowledge and respect for the local restaurant/food stall owners and interspersed tastes with history and a fascinating perspective of the food scene in Hanoi.

Touring the markets in the old part of the city was like stepping back into another time. My husband (who has a very delicate stomach) was a little more cautious than I was, but I can attest to the fact that everything was yummy. Out of respect for the tour company I am not listing any of the exact names or addresses of the small local spots we visited so they don’t get overwhelmed by tourists. They currently are packed with locals and that is how they prefer it.

We ended the tour with a stop at a Chá Cá Tháng Long where our meal was cooked at the table and actually was worthy of it’s Michelin Bib Gourmand designation

Last stop- a final Vietnamese coffee which kept us going for the rest of the day. There are other guides aside from Mark, but if you are heading to Hanoi and can book a tour with him you won’t regret it! A 10/10 as far as food tours go.

Wrapping up Hanoi: We were definitely ready to leave after two nights but on reflection we really adored The Capella, and had a terrific time on our food tour. I was not blown away by Hanoi as a destination, but loved the friendliness and hospitality we encountered there. Would I go back? I don’t think so, but I am glad we got to experience it.

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