Mexico City has been on my list for many years, and after a long weekend there I am already looking forward to a return visit. There is so much to do, see and eat that you can’t possibly squeeze it all in to 4 days but its a good start!
Where we stayed: Casa Polanco promotes itself as your home away from home in Mexico City and it did not disappoint. Set in a 1940’s renovated Neoclassical Mansion in the most desirable area of the city and directly across the street from Parque Lincoln, Casa Polanco doesn’t miss a detail. With only 19 rooms/suites the staff is able to offer highly conscientious service and attention to detail. We relied heavily on the concierge to help plan our activities and they really delivered. A special shout out goes to the very dynamic bartender who was on hand to serve endless (complimentary) tequila whenever the mood struck. Even though it is so small Casa Polanco is a member of Virtuoso so my travel agent was able to ensure we received all of the available perks.
My husband had always had some security concerns about visiting Mexico City but we both felt completely safe in Polanco as there is a very broad police presence which seems to be a very effective crime deterrent. The gates to the Hotel are locked and attended 24 hours a day allowing guests to sleep comfortably. After being mugged in Buenos Aires I left all my jewelry at home for this trip, which I would highly recommend.
Our room (the Anatole Suite) was lovely and we actually felt like we were guests at a very hospitable friend’s home. The toiletries were artisanal and locally made from a company called Xinu and there were copious complimentary nibbles, abundant fresh fruit and even more tequila.
Casa Polanco does not have a restaurant open to the public but there are delicious options if you are a guest at the hotel. Breakfast, which is included in the nightly rate is served in a bright and sunny enclosed courtyard in the center of the hotel and features an abundant buffet as well as a full menu of options. The service is friendly and accommodating and it is a wonderful way to begin the day. Guests are given a head start though as there is coffee delivered to the room at a time of your choosing so you can begin caffeinating early (there is also an espresso machine in the room)! It seems that excess tequila in the evening may necessitate a little extra something in the morning.
After dinner drinks (and delicious food) is also an option at Casa Polanco. We opted for a night cap and my husband ordered some Cecina (salted beef) tacos which he said were outstanding. The Bartender/server in the library deserves another shoutout as his upbeat energy was infectious.
Where we ate: in chronological order
Quintonil : We started out the trip with a bang, heading directly from the airport (thankfully our plane was on time!) to Quintonil in order to experience their world renowned tasting menu. Currently ranked the best restaurant in North America and the #3 restaurant in the world as well as earning 2 Michelin stars, Chef Jorge Vallejo is clearly at the top of his game. The nine course tasting option features indigenous Mexican ingredients including corn, squash, beans and insects and is a relative bargain at about $250 per person. The atmosphere is relaxed but the service is outstanding, and (almost) every bite is revelatory. We did not opt for the wine pairing but instead ordered by the glass with the help of the sommelier who suggested what wine paired best with bugs. Dish after dish was truly fantastic with the exception of the Escamoles two ways, which to be honest I still haven’t recovered from. In fried form they were edible (everything is good fried?!) but in the non-fried version they were actually very soft and quite repulsive. My husband didn’t react as negatively as I did, and of course there is always the option to avoid the insects altogether.
When we finished the meal we were very satiated (but not too stuffed) and pleased with our experience at Quintonil sans the escamoles. Following dessert our waiter brought over trays of the insects included in our meal, and while not a convert I know now that crispy bugs are highly preferable to squishy ones in my book.
Quintonil set the bar super high for our Mexico City dining adventure. The creativity of the menu was impressive, and meal was immensely enjoyable. We actually really enjoyed booking the meal as a late lunch rather than dinner, giving us time to digest all those little critters.
Pujol: Pujol happens to be the only other restaurant in Mexico City with two Michelin stars, and is where Quintonil’s Jorge Vallejo got his start, so the two restaurants are closely associated with one another. In 2025 Pujol dropped to number 51 (from 24) on the World’s Best list so if you are an avid believer in those rankings you might think there is a large discrepancy between the two experiences, but I found that not to be the case. I opted to book the Taco Omakase experience at Pujol which I thought might be preferable to another “formal” tasting menu and (spoiler alert) I thought the meal was even better than Quintonil, though my husband disagreed.
The staff checked dietary restrictions when we sat down and were happy to accommodate my gluten free/pescatarian request as well as a desire to avoid any more ant larvae/ escamoles (other bugs were ok). Like Quintonil’s tasting menu the Taco Omakase also consisted of 9 courses, but was priced slightly lower as it was a simpler meal overall. There is of course the more extensive tasting option at Pujol if you desire.
The meal started strong with baby corn, coffee mayonnaise and chile costeño and continued on from there.
In my mind each bite was more delectable than the last and they were all totally accessible with a creative bent. Coupled with my margarita and then a Pujol Cerveza these were tacos in their most elevated state, and I was happy. The service was as helpful and informative as you would expect from a two starred Michelin restaurant, but at the same time completely relaxed.
Carinito Tacos located in Roma Norte is a Michelin recommended taco stand specializing in Asian inspired tacos which are served in a corn husk. We stopped here before Lucha Libre and my husband enjoyed a pork belly taco which he said was delicious. We stopped here right after Pujol so I didn’t have any room left for tacos, but he managed!
Panadería Rosetta: we visited this iconic bakery that is on everyone’s must visit list mid-morning in order to taste their famous guava pastry. We waited on a very lengthy line (which did move quickly) and ordered one for my husband to sample while I settled for the only gluten free item on the menu, an unbelievably moist panqué de elote (corn muffin) baked in a corn husk. My husband is not usually a fan of fruity pastries but deemed it tasty (I sampled the guava filling) and I really liked my muffin as it was not too sweet.
We nibbled as we continued to explore the very hip area surrounding Rosetta and then were surprised to find there are literally no trash cans anywhere in order to dispose of our pastry bags so we ultimately returned to the bakery to toss them out.
Contramar: Another restaurant that just about everyone insisted we try was Contramar, a consistently crowded seafood spot that appeals to all demographics, young, old, locals and tourists. It is such an institution that they are planning to open an outpost in Las Vegas which undoubtedly will be a big success for them.
The energy in the restaurant is certainly a selling point as are the professional and somewhat old fashioned waiters. The fish is fresh and tasty but nothing here is particularly revelatory or groundbreaking. The meal was good and I am glad we gave it a try (I did love the whipped cream and meringue laden strawberry cake- be sure to save room) but I don’t think I need to return, whether in Mexico City or Las Vegas! One wise friend did advise that she would opt for Ultramarinos Demar over Contramar with regards to innovation and presentation so that is where I will book next time.
Maximo: Maximo Bistrot is another restaurant that was consistently recommended to us by friends, many of whom said it was their favorite dining experience in Mexico City. We were optimistic when we entered as the space is quite impressive with soaring ceilings and loads of flowers, but as the evening progressed I grew more and more disillusioned. The staff while seemingly friendly at first glance is exceedingly rigid and condescending, all chattering into their ear pieces and taking themselves far too seriously.
The tables for two are set far two close to one another and decorated with candles so that each time someone enters or exits the banquette they are at risk of catching on fire. The gentlemen at the table next to us almost had (a literal) meltdown as I excused myself to visit the restroom.
The menu too was almost completely devoid of options for a gluten free pescatarian and so I ended up ordering things that were completely unappealing (to me) and while they were well executed I didn’t enjoy them. The excessive use of butter in the dishes seems unnecessary, my husband who ordered the (buttery) cheeseburger and mashed potatoes was unable to finish even half of his meal We didn’t order dessert.
I may be in the minority but I did not enjoy Maximo at all.
Nicos: A very well trusted foodie friend adamantly insisted I dine at Nicos while visiting Mexico City and initially I couldn’t figure out when to squeeze it into our schedule, but ultimately decided to go for a late breakfast on our way to the airport and I am so glad I heeded his advice, it was delicious. Unassuming and located well off the beaten path Nicos has been serving delectable food for over 60 years. We had a driver bring us there and wait for us enroute to the airport which worked out perfectly. The staff is exceedingly friendly but they do not cater to the tourist trade, little english is spoken and you are on your own to translate the menu. The dining room was filled with local families when we arrived at 9:30 am on a Sunday and I expect it remained busy throughout the day.
A complimentary donut was brought to my husband as he sat down and I ordered a mocha which struck the perfect balance between chocolate and coffee. I ordered Chilaquiles, home made tortillas, eggs, queso and salsa. It was ethereal, and filling enough to keep me satiated all day negating the need to eat on my flight. To be honest I am not quite sure what my husband ordered but I believe it was a version of Chilaquiles with chicken and chorizo, he doesn’t remember exactly either though he loved his dish as well. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and I would very much like to return to sample another meal. A bonus? The prices are incredibly reasonable.
Experiences: The art scene in Mexico City is off the charts and we barely scratched the surface. We were fortunate to be connected with a fantastic guide named Carlos who took us through several museums, I only wish we had more time as there was so much more to see. I am happy to share his contact if you message me directly, he was knowledgable, enthusiastic and engaging.
Museo Soumaya Our first stop was at the spectacular Museo Soumaya which houses the collection of Carlos Slim (and happens to have been designed by his son in law Fernando Romero). Slim is the wealthiest person in Latin America and one of the richest in the world and his extensive art collection (just a fraction of which is exhibited here) is as impressive as you might expect.
The first floor of the museum features exact copies of some of the worlds most iconic works of art (think Michelangelo’s The David) but if you venture upstairs you will find yourself dazzled by works by some of Latin America’s most accomplished artists as well as European treasures and the world’s largest collection of pre-Hispanic and colonial era coins.
Museo Jumex is located just across the street from Museo Soumaya and currently features an exhibit entitled Football (soccer) and Art in anticipation of the upcoming FiFA games. This was a very interesting collection that didn’t take too long to tour, and I was grateful to gain insight from our guide as to what we were seeing. Definitely worth a visit (side note: entry to Museos Jumex and Soumaya are free!)
Museo Nacional de Antropología is the largest and most visited museum in Mexico and justifiably so, it is incredible. You most certainly want a guide to take you through this museum in order to streamline your experience, there is so much to see that you could spend days here and not see it all. The art as well as the history deserves to be explained by someone with extensive knowledge and our guide did just that. Below are some of the highlights but there is so much more to explore.
Museo Frida Kahlo (otherwise known as La Casa Azul/ the Blue House) is a small private museum dedicated to the life of Frida Kahlo (it is the house where she was born as well as where she died) and if you are a fan of her work you will enjoy it. While I appreciate her talent and the fascinating story of her life and marriage to Diego Rivera she is not my favorite; there is a lot of heaviness hidden behind the the bright blue exterior. The entrance to the museum is timed and tickets are challenging to reserve so we ended up booking through Viator on the secondary market which is convenient but you do pay a premium. I am glad we saw it, but didn’t enjoy it.
Lucha Libre is a form of free style wrestling that is immensely popular in Mexico. If you are looking for a night of total entertainment and enthusiastic audience participation look no further than a night spent watching Lucha Libre. We decided to book our tickets in conjunction with a tour on Viator which was a perfect way to experience it. About 20 or so Lucha Libre fans met up with two infectiously cheerful guides ahead of the event and downed tacos and mezcal before entering the arena. Our guides Miguel and Mel gave us some background on the history of the sport and offered pointers on how and when to cheer. Most importantly they were integral in navigating within the chaos of the arena and helped us locate our driver after the festivities ended (this was worth all the money honestly)!
This activity was silly and super fun, and I would recommend if you want a night of frivolity.
Wandering: One of the top activities in Mexico City has to be wandering (whether by foot or by car) and soaking in the different neighborhoods. Polanco where we stayed is the most upscale with Roma Norte a bit younger and hipper. We also explored San Ángel which has an sprawling art market on Saturdays. We hired a driver (Fernando) to facilitate a day of exploration and he was fantastic. He had unparalleled knowledge of restaurants, markets, neighborhoods and was a pleasure to spend time with. Please let me know if you would like his contact, I would recommend him 100%.
These are just a fraction of the photos I took, there is so much to see and appreciate, I really can’t wait to return.
If you have a long weekend getaway you are trying to plan I would implore you to take a trip to Mexico City, you will not be disappointed. We felt safe (but took precautions as far as hiring drivers and carefully choosing where we visited) and neither of us got sick (we were hyper aware of not drinking any water that wasn’t bottled or filtered) and we didn’t eat street. There were many people in the airport when we left nursing large bottles of pedialyte so you may want to err on the side of caution.
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