If you happen to be a longtime reader of my blog Mohonk Mountain House in New Paltz, N.Y. may seem an unlikely destination for me because the property leans a little less luxurious than my usual vacation spots BUT I absolutely loved my most recent visit there.
A little back story, Mohonk is a historic Victorian resort in New York State that has been in operation since the 1870s and while it obviously has been modernized over time and the facilities are currently in good shape, luxury has never been a priority but rather a focus on time spent in nature and tranquil reflection.
The nightly (all-inclusive) rate at Mohonk is quite pricey, and while Condé Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Fodors and multiple other publications recognize Mohonk (especially the relatively new spa addition) as one of the best destinations year after year, you need to understand that you are paying for staff and extensive year round maintenance, not luxury.
If you are cognizant of the fact that your experience at Mohonk should be focused on immersing yourself in natural beauty and stepping back to a simpler time rather than on luxury finishes you will have a wonderful experience, which is just what we did when we visited as a family to celebrate my in-laws’ 85th birthdays. In fact, much like a cruise, a stay at Mohonk is the perfect place to celebrate a multi-generational milestone, and there were many groups doing just that, there is truly something for everyone.
The first glimpse of the massive hotel and surrounding property never fails to impress, even after multiple visits over the years. Personally my numerous visits to Mohonk date back to the 1970s when I was growing up. As a family we often visited multiple times a year and so Mohonk is incredibly nostalgic for me, so much so that I continued to visit over the decades as we started our own family, with the last stay being in the early 2000’s as there were so many other destinations vying for my attention.
Honestly I was a little reluctant to return to Mohonk as I didn’t want to be disappointed by an experience that didn’t live up to my fond memories but this special occasion warranted a revisit.
Without question the absolute highlight of Mohonk is the natural beauty and the photos in this post while impressive fail to do it justice. There are miles of hiking trails, gardens, water activities and so much more to explore. One fun thing to do is scout out as many gazebos (which are dotted all over the property) as you can. I cannot imagine the maintenance that is required to keep them all in tip top condition.
Our visit in early June enabled us to catch the tail end of the peonies which were stunning. I am certain as the summer continues there will be a variety equally impressive blooms in store.
Whether boating or swimming is your thing you will enjoy the lake at the center of the property.
I (along with most of the children on property) took great pleasure in feeding the fish with food provided by the amenable staff on the dock.
As I mentioned, the interior of the hotel has been maintained but not visibly upgraded from my childhood memories. I think I would be highly disappointed if I hadn’t prepared myself in advance, but I knew what I was in for. I channeled a laid- back version of myself, accepting things as they were, not even complaining about the fact that our room was steps away from the dining room. I don’t think this new and improved me is here to stay though, it took a lot of effort!
There is no shortage of food at Mohonk, guests are fed generously and there are endless choices. All of the dishes are clearly labeled with allergens and the breadth of offerings is quite impressive. Breakfast and lunch are served buffet style, while dinner is more elevated and served traditionally. On weekends in the summer there is also a lunchtime cook-out option which is a fun. The food is fine and plentiful, and that may be just enough for most people. The dinner options really push the envelope (uni risotto anyone?) but there is also a kids buffet as a fall back. Especially impressive is the army of chefs, servers and busboys that make it all run smoothly.
We opted to bring along some special bottles of wine to accompany our dinners, Mohonk will oblige and charge a corkage fee which is something to consider. One other tip, if you are going to be staying with them make sure to specify you would prefer a table on the origianl side of the dining room (the side with the view of the mountains) otherwise you will be relegated to “Siberia”. We were told that there were no tables large enough to accommodate our group of twelve in the more desirable section but I believe if you specify ahead of time they will do their best. Keep in mind I was still holding on to my easy going laid-back personality, reminding myself that on this particular trip I was not in charge.
There are frequently special themed weekends at Mohonk and our stay happened to be a Western themed one. Not only were there horses on property but additionally there was special entertainment.
A fantastic tribute to Bob Denver featuring David Lutkin and his band.
One of the best activities at Mohonk is the hiking and there is literally a trail for everyone, including the incredibly challenging Labyrinth trail up to Sky Top Tower, the highest point on property with views of six states on a clear day. Throughout the weekend we made numerous treks up to Sky Top culminating in a group expedition through not only the unbelievably narrow Crevice but also “Headache Rock”, “Fat Man’s Misery, and The Lemon Squeeze”. I cheered our group through these sometimes harrowing challenges and while there were curses, regret and even some tears of frustration we all made it successfully to the top.
I believe that the warning at the head of the trail should be somewhat more explicit as far as size limitations to get through some of the more narrow openings as well as the fact that there is no easy or obvious way to turn back but ultimately it was exhilarating and a real accomplishment. The good news? We did not bring along my 85 year old in-laws on this particular hike.
We had a terrific time at Mohonk and I would highly recommend it, but I feel I must reiterate that you have to go with the proper expectations. If you expect a luxury resort you will be disappointed. The prices are high but simplicity is the name of the game, the large staff are well intentioned rather than polished, the food is plentiful but it is being prepared in mass quantities.
There is a no escaping the pervasive mustiness in public spaces and the highest compliment I can give regarding the rooms is that they are simple but the physical beauty of the property, the endless activities, the wholesomeness and nostalgia that comes along with the stay makes it all worthwhile. The atmosphere of relaxation and celebration is infectious, it truly is like stepping back into another time and place.
I am interested to hear your perspective, have you been?