One of my favorite things about London is the diversity of dining options in the city, something that was not the case when I started visiting years ago. The current food scene rivals any other cosmopolitan hub such as NYC or LA, and may actually come out on top. During our short stay we hoped to hit as many different ethnic restaurants as possible and I think we enjoyed a pretty good sampling.
The first reservation I made once our flights were booked was AngloThai, a very celebrated new restaurant that just received a much coveted Michelin star after less than a year in existence, and the first Thai restaurant in London to achieve this honor. Their tagline is “Rooted in Thailand, uniquely British” which was a pretty good hook to draw us in. Located in Marylebone and offering a prix fixe menu, AngloThai is definitely a step above most of the other Thai spots in the city. The emphasis is on Thai cooking techniques and ingredients sourced locally (from the UK) as well as elevated service and an extensive wine list.
I wanted to love AngloThai because the staff was so earnest and the buzz that accompanied their Michelin star was so enticing, but in the end we enjoyed the meal, but it didn’t knock our socks off. The staff was kind enough to make note of our dietary preferences and allergies but what ensued was a veritable comedy of errors; several dishes had to be returned to the kitchen and swapped out for those that didn’t include gluten as well as oysters being served to my husband (he is allergic). It became a bit stressful as practically each course had an issue. The food was tasty and the service well meaning, but honestly, it was a bit of a farce.
Just a note, this was not a language barrier issue as all of the servers were British, including our primary server who not only mumbled indecipherably but also spoke barely above a whisper.
Next on our agenda was Indian and it was hard to cull through the list of choices but we ultimately settled on Kutir located in a lovely townhouse in Chelsea. We had tickets to see a show the evening we visited Kutir so our reservation was quite early (5:00 pm) and while we had the undivided attention of our servers initially, the excellent service continued throughout the meal; a marked difference from our experience at AngloThai. One advantage of our early reservation was the gorgeous sunlight pouring in through the skylight allowing for excellent photographing of the meal.
All of the waitstaff we interacted with were professional, helpful and just the right amount of chatty. The food (and cocktails) were delicious, particularly the prawns and soft shell crab, and there was even a gluten free bread option which was much appreciated. We seriously contemplated the very tempting dessert menu but we were so stuffed we had to decline. On recent visits to London we dined at both Gymkhana and Jamavar, both excellent but a bit more formal. If you are craving a light, happy, and delicious Indian meal I would most certainly consider adding Kutir to your list.
The River Café has been a celebrated destination for over thirty years, yet somehow we never had a chance to visit until now. We booked a table on the Saturday night of our stay at 8:00 and when we arrived the party was in full swing. The dining room was packed and the noise level was high, and as an added bonus the proprietor Ruth Rogers was in the house making the rounds so I am guessing the staff and chefs were on their best behavior all night.
The River Café is a special kind of place that is fancy without being pretentious, incorporating stellar ingredients and serving dishes that are simple but expertly executed. The prices are lofty but you don’t feel as though you have been fleeced, at least that is how we felt. The table placement is such that the servers literally have to dodge other waitstaff and customers at every turn, but there were no mishaps as far as we could see. I perused the menu while sipping a Negroni Sbagliato which substitutes Prosecco for Gin, a perfectly light and refreshing aperitif.
My husband and I were quite hungry when we arrived so we got right to the business of studying the menu and ordering. Our server complimented us on our dinner choices (perhaps she does that with all the guests) but in any case our mouths were watering in anticipation of our meal. The menu choices clearly reflected the season, Spring was in the air both in London and at the River Café. The lighting was a bit challenging so the food photos don’t look quite as appetizing as it did in person, but suffice it to say the Mozzarella with sautéed zucchini (Scarpece) was outstanding, the Calamari was perfectly tender and delicious and the Risi e Bisi was excellent. By the time the mains came we were approaching satiation but we soldiered through and enjoyed our entrees making sure to save room for dessert, which did not disappoint!
After paying our check I shared some compliments with Ruth who couldn’t have been more gracious. I am sorry it took us so long to pay a visit to the River Café but it will now be on the rotation, perhaps requesting to dine on the patio next time.
I have to admit that I am usually the driving force behind most (ok almost all) of the trip planning, but I was happy to honor my husband’s request for Dim Sum on Sunday. Royal China Club (the Michelin starred original) was recommended by several sources so I booked a table for noon. While I like Chinese food Dim Sum is often a little challenging for me as well as those who are gluten free (and pescatarian). We surely would have been able to sample many more dishes if we had dined with friends but my husband came with a healthy appetite and ate the lions share of what we ordered.
The dining room was very crowded with other couples and groups who had the same idea we did, and our server was very solicitous of my “condition” and suggested a cold shredded potato dish which she promised didn’t have a trace of gluten in it. I appreciated her effort, but it was just okay. I also noshed on some fried tofu which I believe was merely dusted with rice flour, and a bite of the King Prawn Cheung Fun which I thought were rice noodles but was subsequently told they contained gluten. All of the food was nicely presented and my husband especially loved the BBQ pork buns. I would certainly recommend a visit to Royal China Club, but my suggestion is to go with a group.
We didn’t have to travel too far for our final dinner in London, dining just down the street from the Connaught at George, an eating club in Mayfair where we went as guests of our friends who are members. It was a Sunday night so the dining room was quiet, but the menu was appealing (I can never resist a Greek Salad), service was attentive and the food was healthy (at least what I chose) and expertly prepared. We were able to enjoy a leisurely dinner with no pressure of turning over our table which was a true luxury. The meal was capped off with freshly baked Madeleines that quickly disappeared.
Clearly much of our time was occupied by indulging in delicious meals, but we did manage to squeeze in some culture, with a highlight being a visit to the Wallace Collection, conveniently located right around the corner from the Royal China Club. What was once a private home now showcases an unbelievable collection of art, furnishings and armor amassed by Richard Seymour Conway, the 4th Marquess of Hertford and original owner of the mansion. A major bonus? A visit to the museum is free. We spent about an hour perusing the galleries but we easily could have spent much more time there.
Another museum we popped into was one of my all time favorites the V & A. There are no shortage of fascinating installations and exhibits, but one temporary one I wish we could have seen was the Cartier Exhibition which opened right after our stay, running through mid-November. We consoled ourselves by spending time wandering through their permanent collections. Entry to the V & A is also free and a terrific way to spend an afternoon.
I feel you can’t visit London without attending a show, and our choice on this trip was Operation Mincemeat which coincidentally just opened on Broadway in New York following it’s success in London. If you are visiting London or NY, love the humor of Mel Brooks and Monty Python and want to be simultaneously entertained and educated about WWII history; Operation Mincemeat is the show for you.
Ultimately the best thing about London in my mind is simply wandering around, and thanks to some truly spectacular weather combined with the approaching Easter holiday there was lots to look at every turn. We enjoyed a fun painted egg display in Chelsea as well as some terrific Spring Time offerings at Liberty. The weakening dollar and lack of a VAT refund in London made it slightly less appealing to do a lot of shopping but I was certainly tempted. One stop my husband always has to make is Hedonism Wines which really went all out for the holiday.
It was so nice to be back in London (if you missed it you can read about our stay at the Connaught here). The city has definitely changed since my last visit in 2019, and while it is no longer maintains the same lofty status in my heart, it is still pretty wonderful. In all truth, I think everything was better when the Queen was still alive.