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There is nothing better than Springtime in Italy, tourist season isn’t yet in full swing and weather is generally good. We had a ten day itinerary planned and the first stop was Milan, a favorite for its walkability, sophistication, great food and luxurious hotels. Seven years had passed since we last visited (which you can read about here) and I was anxious to return. Having previously stated that Emirates was the only way to fly to Milan, on this trip we (regrettably) broke with tradition and booked our tickets on Delta as we would be returning from Rome. While the new Delta One Lounge in JFK is a winner, it doesn’t quite make up for the subpar inflight seat configuration and mediocre service we endured. I skipped the meal service completely and was grateful I had done yoga earlier in the day to prepare for the strangely angled lie flat beds.

While we had been loyal to Palazzo Parigi on previous visits to Milan we decided to branch out and book the Portrait Milano based on its central location and glowing recommendations from my well-traveled sister who has stayed there numerous times. The hotel is part of the Lungarno Collection, a small group of five star accommodations owned by the Ferragamo family, so we were confident the details would be perfect, and we were not disappointed.

Where we stayed: We booked a Junior Suite at the Portrait, and that is what we got; sadly no upgrade was available. The check-in was smooth, in addition to the excellent coffee they brought us as we handed over our passports, we received the welcome news that our room was ready (at noon). The reception area was exceedingly pleasant and the staff was professional yet approachable.

Our Jr. Suite was located on the first floor and was well appointed and comfortable. One thing that was lacking (I seemed to have overlooked this when I booked) was a bathtub, which irked me. Loads of welcome treats and sparkling wine softened the blow; and to be honest it really was a lovely space.

After quickly perusing the suite we needed to ingest some food and start exploring, we didn’t have long in Milan. Having not eaten a single bite on the flight we ordered a light lunch of salad and pasta (and wine) at the hotel to energize us, and then it was off to wander and shop. A major advantage of the Portrait’s location? All of the best designer stores are literally right outside the door.

An added benefit the Portrait Milano offers, they have received the recognition of having the best hotel breakfast in Milan and I am not surprised. The gorgeous presentation and extensive choices are truly impressive; if you are a breakfast person it might be reason enough to book a stay.

What we saw: Of course it wasn’t only about shopping, we managed to visit the Duomo, as well as the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele (purported to be the original shopping arcade). The weather was spectacular so there were loads of people walking throughout the city.

Viewing Leonardo Da Vinci’s Last Supper had been on my list for a long time Housed in the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie there are a set number of visitors allowed entry each day. While it is possible to get tickets online it is not easy, so we asked the hotel concierge to procure them for us. It is a highly regulated visit which lasts just 15 minutes, but it is truly remarkable, absolutely worth the effort to see this masterpiece in person.

Sforza Castle (Castello Sforzesco) is another destination you should add to your itinerary if you haven’t been already been. The castle is home to a collection of Museums within the walls of a truly impressive 15th century medieval fortification, and as an added bonus? Admission is free!

Not a cultural institution, but rather a classic culinary one, Peck Milano has been a Temple of Gastronomy in Milan for over 140 years. It is worth a trip to peruse their wine selection and admire their mouthwatering presentations. If I lived in Milan this would be my daily go-to for provisions and treats.

In reality you don’t even need an agenda in Milan, just wander; there is beauty to appreciate at every turn. Wear comfortable shoes, and look chic, people dress to impress here, please leave your athleisure wear at home.

Where we ate (and drank): When in Italy you must indulge in the custom of aperitivo, and one perfect place to refresh and soak up the atmosphere and watch the world go by is Biffi a destination located in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele since 1912. The Spritz’s were not the best we have had, but we enjoyed them nonetheless.

As far as proper meals, our old standby has always been Ristorante Giacomo which is a tried and true classic, but a friend told me to give La Gioia San Marco a try as the savvy fashionistas flock there during Milan Fashion week. This may very well be the case, but unfortunately we found the “early” seating (7:45 pm) was filled with 100% American tourists, mostly it seemed from the Midwest. Alas, our crowd was not fashionable or chic and the only language we heard was English. There was a Security Guard outside so it seems as though the second seating draws a more International hip crowd, but since it was our first night I knew we wouldn’t be happy dining later.

Aside from the American crowd we found the food to be somewhat disappointing, perhaps the kitchen was saving their culinary wizardry for a more discerning audience. The staff was well-intentioned but a little careless and the service haphazard. Long story short, I’m glad we tried someplace new, but on the next trip we will return to Giacomo, or Langosteria for which I have also heard glowing reviews.

Thankfully the remainder of our meals in Milan were excellent, including Rovello 18 where we enjoyed a delicious lunch as well as an up close view of the preparations by very young and intensely focused chefs. The Cacio e Pepe (both regular and gf for me) was outstanding, and my husband was very happy with his Polpo alla Brace. We declined dessert as we spotted a promising gelato shop close by.

Elléboro is an artisanal Gelato shop that is so new that there is unfortunately no information online regarding their Milan location. Trust me, it was delicious, and if you happen upon it please give it a try. The original shop is in Monza.

Aperitivo on day two was enjoyed in the Portrait’s outdoor bar (10_11) which faces the hotels interior courtyard, the Quadrilatero. Their take on the Spritz included Savoia Americano rather than Aperol, pink grapefruit and Prosecco. It was a winner! The wait for a spot outside was over an hour, but somehow we snuck our way to the head of the line (guests of the hotel should have priority, right?).

Dinner at Il Salumaio di Montenapoleone was fantastic, I would most definitely recommend it and if the weather cooperates, even better. The setting in the courtyard is so atmospheric, the service “old school” professional and the food simple perfection. We probably over-ordered, but rose to the occasion and polished off most of it along with a yummy bottle of wine. The other diners? Mostly Italian!

Milan has been rated the most walkable city in the world which is easy to believe. Hopefully our daily step count ensured that we burned off most of our excess calories.

48 hours in Milan literally flew by, and was so enjoyable that we started discussing a return visit during our final breakfast at the hotel.

Our next stop turned out to be the culinary highlight of the trip… stay tuned!