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I recently returned from a trip to Italy where my main goal, aside from absolute indulgent relaxation was to evaluate three of the most luxurious hotel accommodations and determine which was the “winner”. Clearly this is a challenging task, but someone has to do it! First on the agenda was the Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli located on the shores of Lake Garda in the picturesque town of Gargnano. Truth be told, I had visited Villa Feltrinelli back in 2019 and deemed it the best Hotel in Italy (you can read my review here), and I had been trying to figure out how to return, dreaming about it in fact all through the Pandemic!

Often when a memory is so idyllic the reality disappoints, but I am relieved to say that my return visit to Villa Feltrinelli five years later was just as outstanding as the first. Like my previous review, this post is going to be heavy on the photos as it is the only way to convey the perfection found in every category; decor, food, scenery, and ambiance. You will have to take my word for it that the level of service and professionalism also nears perfection.

Following a very early morning arrival in Milan, we were driven to the hotel and arrived by around 9:45 am where we were greeted not only with a small bouquet of flowers but also the good news that our suite was ready for us. The hotel had reopened for the season a couple of weeks ago, and every inch seemed to have been polished and shined in anticipation of an influx of guests. It was refreshing to see many familiar faces from our last visit; in an industry that is frequently a revolving door of employees, the fact that there is consistency in staff says a lot.

I had reserved the La Poeta Suite located on the top floor of the Villa which promised spectacular views, and did not disappoint.

Some people are minimalists and enjoy a spare and monochromatic aesthetic, I am on the totally opposite end of the spectrum, so the interiors at Villa Feltrinelli are right up my alley (in a classic and sophisticated way). Mussolini was essentially held prisoner in the Villa Feltrinelli at the end of WWII, which doesn’t seem too terrible to me if you had to pick a place to be imprisoned; there is a fascinating account that you can read here.

Because the weather forecast was primarily rain during our visit, we mainly stayed inside the hotel for the bulk of our stay and were very happy to do so, moving from room to room with our books and laptops, enjoying food and drink along the way.

During the initial tour of La Poeta we were offered the option of having our bags unpacked and our clothes hung, which we refused, but appreciated nonetheless. We were only staying two nights so didn’t want to spend too much time repacking when it was time to go. My first impression of our room was simply wow, it was a balanced mix of pattern and color that was both grand as well as livable and cozy.

Take a look at the videos to get a better sense of the dreaminess of the decor.

The bathroom was gorgeous, huge and fully stocked with Acqua di Parma, so it smelled delectable.

Once we were settled in we did a quick walk through of the property to check to see whether I had idealized the hotel in my memories but it was even more spectacular than I remembered.

Literally every fixture, fabric and detail made me smile. Not pictured are the staff always at the ready to help or fulfill whatever requests we had, big or small.

Since we hadn’t eaten since before our flight (I had the most miserable excuse for meal service on our United flight, but that is besides the point, Polaris most definitely did not deliver on my vegetarian meal request) and it was still so early we opted for breakfast which we opted to eat outside. Everything, especially the strong coffee and gluten free almond cake was scrumptious.

Once we refueled and our bellies were full we took advantage of a slight break in the weather and set out to explore the magnificent grounds. The occupancy was due to be full on the weekend for a big birthday celebration, but in the few days we were there it was relatively quiet, and we felt as though we had the place to ourselves.

Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) is the largest lake in Italy, and absolutely beautiful; it is much quieter than Lake Como (at least in Gargnano). A new addition to the grounds were small fitness pods set amongst the lemon trees in the terraced gardens. My husband took advantage of these and proclaimed them to be delightful, I stayed inside and read!

Idyllic.

We were feeling the jet- lag a bit after our strenuous day of reading and relaxing, so we settled in for world class Aperitivo. Due to the inclement weather we considered staying inside, but ventured onto the covered terrace for some Champagne and a Negroni. Along with our drinks we were served several perfect little bites which whetted our appetites for dinner (the restaurant at the hotel has received two Michelin Stars and is open to the public).

Once seated in the dining room we received more tempting nibbles as well as some excellent gluten free bread. We decided to order from the more informal menu rather than the elaborate tasting menu because we were afraid we might fall asleep mid-meal, which was a good choice. Don’t be afraid to tailor meals to your liking, the staff is truly amenable to whatever you might desire. Needless to say the food, the service, and the presentation were excellent.

Buona Notte!

Day two: breakfast in a new magnificent location (too windy to dine outside).

Next activity: Spa time for two, trying to beat the jet lag.

Aside from the offer to unpack our suitcases, Villa Feltrinelli also provides complimentary laundry service which is a treat, and is delivered scented with a lavender sachet.

Grey and rainy, but no less beautiful.

I had no hesitation as where I wanted to while away a couple of hours, parking myself in my favorite sitting room and settling in with a Spritz and some cheese. My husband then met me for tea and chocolates. Seriously? A pretty perfect day.

It was challenging to pull ourselves away from Villa Feltrinelli, but we decided to book dinner at Ristorante La Tortuga located just a few minutes away by foot in the picturesque center of Gargnano. Owned by a mother and daughter team and the recipient of a Michelin star, La Tortuga is perpetually booked, so we planned ahead and secured our reservation the month prior. Sadly my husband was a little under the weather, and although he felt well enough to come along, it was up to me to pull my weight in the eating department.

The atmosphere was intimate and cozy, and the service was very friendly and helpful. The food quality was excellent and the menu focused on local lake fish; with the Fish Ragu being one of the best dishes I enjoyed the entire trip. The white fish with a green sauce was also excellent (my husband’s dish) as well as the pasta with asparagus and white fish (also his- I just picked off the toppings). Eating both portions of dessert wasn’t too much of a hardship. If you are visiting Villa Feltrinelli, or Lake Garda itself, try and fit in a dinner at Ristorante La Tortuga, and be sure to order the Fish Ragu!

Upon our return to the room we were met with more beautiful flowers and began to feel the regret that comes when you know you have to leave a special place.

Morning arrived and we were pleased to see the sun had finally reappeared so we dined al fresco before our car was due to pick us up at 10 am. My omelette with cheese and mushrooms was heavy on the cheese (heaven!) and my husband clearly was feeling better as the plate of meats and side of pancakes could attest.

We took one last spin around the property in order to get a lasting memory of a truly magnificent place. Clearly I love everything about this hotel, if pressed I don’t think I could find a single negative, but we were about to visit a hotel that is currently being lauded as the very best in Italy and I was curious to see how it would compare. Stay tuned to see what my thoughts are…

Arrivederci Villa Feltrinelli.