Rounding out my recent tour of Italian fantasy destinations (you can read about my stays at Villa Feltrinelli here, and Passalacqua here) was a visit to Hotel Castello di Reschio. I stayed at the property two years ago, and absolutely loved it (read about it here) so we decided to bring our friends along to experience the magic as well. Reschio is still at the top of many bucket lists, though a large percentage of the reviews online are from the initial opening and media blitz. While still an incredibly special property, there are some changes since my last visit.
Upon our arrival we quickly glanced around and found things seemed to be just as we left them. It was early May and the weather was perfection, with flowers and plants in all their springtime glory.
We briefly met with the receptionist in the Palm Court which again was just as we remembered, a very dramatic and inviting space perfect for Aperitivo which we looked forward to enjoying later in the day.
After handing over our passports and checking in, we received our room key and dropped our things in our Junior Suite. It was the same category of room we booked on our last visit, but this time it was on the second floor rather than the first. The design details in the rooms still impress; in fact each and every item is worth a close look. Interestingly a large percentage of the furniture and lighting is manufactured just for Reschio and is of the highest quality.
Once settled we ventured out for a stroll on the property, with the first stop being the pool which is especially stunning, resembling a lake from afar. The weather was sunny and hot and the chaises by the pool were filled throughout the day, but one major disappointment was that the picturesque Il Torrino Bar which had been open last time for drinks and food service was not yet operating. As we lounged by the pool we inquired as to whether they might be able to bring us some snacks, or a small meal, and unfortunately the answer was no, the Bar would not open for the season until the day after we checked out. Really? Perhaps my expectations are unrealistic but at a luxury property such as Reschio the answer should be “since the Bar is not yet open we will fix you something in the main kitchen and bring it right down”. I overheard many of the same inquiries to the staff by the pool, so I felt validated that I was not entirely unreasonable.
Continuing the tour around the property, the surroundings remain stunning, the light is perfect, the environs are perfectly manicured, it is truly a spectacular spot; therefore the disappointments in the service are an especially glaring contrast.
A perfect example of frustrating service came when we stopped by the Palm Court for drinks before dinner. Music filled the room, and fellow guests were chatting and enjoying their cocktails, but alas my order of a Negroni made with vodka instead gin really seemed to throw them off course. The waiter came and double checked my order three times over the course of 15 minutes before it was ultimately placed in front of me, sans snacks. Mind you I was ravenous following the lack of a poolside lunch, and a little cranky, so I went over to the bar and requested some crisps and olives for the table. “Of course” they said, delivering them 5 minutes later, oblivious to the fact that something was amiss service wise. I am not sure whether they are short personnel or the professionalism is not quite there, but this was no good.
During our last visit to Reschio we experienced some disappointment regarding their dining options, particularly the fancier restaurant, so for our first night we opted for the more casual choice on property, Ristorante Alle Scuderie. We focused primarily on an assortment of pastas, all of which were adequate, with the gluten free bread being the stand-out for me. The issue we had was that many of the dishes were unnecessarily complicated and thus unappealing. We tried to order the simplest dishes, and they were fine, but even during the meal we were strategizing as to where to go the following night.
Putting aside the disappointments in food and service, the property is still breathtaking.
Breakfast provided us with another opportunity to experience the food and service. First and foremost, as stated before, the setting is unbeatable; the views are exquisite, as is the presentation of the buffet; though not quite at the level of Passalacqua. Once again the dissatisfaction stems from the service side of things, with coffee orders being confused, forgotten, and delayed. It may be that my expectations are unrealistic, but during our stay Reschio received notice they were awarded three Michelin Keys denoting it is a hotel of the very highest caliber in every level, so expectations should be high!
Following breakfast we embarked on a hike in the surrounding environs, there are extensive trails around the property which are worth exploring. There is also the option of riding which was tempting, but we chose to just admire the horses from a distance. All roads led back to the gorgeous pool, though the Spritzs we all craved remained unavailable.
One activity that should be on your agenda if you visit is a soak in the beautiful Roman baths, as well as a steam and a sauna. Plan ahead and book your time slot as soon as you arrive as they fill up quickly.
On our second night at Reschio we decided to venture “off campus” in search of a simple and authentic Italian meal. We had hoped to return to Ristorante Girasoli which we enjoyed during our last stay, but they are closed on Thursdays; instead we booked dinner at Ristorante de Nonna Gelsa also located close by.
We arrived at 7:45 to an empty restaurant which proceeded to fill up completely by 8 pm. The waitress/proprietor/sommelier could not have been nicer or more patient in advising us on what we had to try, including two different antipasti platters (one vegetarian and one with meat) as well as the grilled pork they are known for and the vegetable of the day, chicory. We definitely over-ordered, but it was hard to resist their enthusiasm. We washed it all down with some local Umbrian wine and we were happy. While not a stellar meal, it was very homey, simple and enjoyable.
When it came time to leave very early the following morning we accepted the offer of a boxed meal to bring along to the airport. Reminiscing about the treats we enjoyed the last time they packed us a “picnic” we anticipated a similar feast of assorted goodies, though unfortunately here too we were somewhat let down. We received several boxes filled with small sandwiches and apples and pears, but it was nothing like our prior bonanza. Luckily the airport lounge delivered with some strong coffee and assorted pastries so we did not go hungry.
I had been raving about Reschio for the past two years and feel fortunate for the chance to revisit and reevaluate it. There is no question that the property itself is spectacular, beauty abounds in every direction. The glaring negative on this visit though was the unfortunate drop in the level of service. Reschio is exceedingly pricey, a true splurge for most people, and the expectation is that the experience will be perfection or close to it. I am not alone in feeling they came up short in several instances, and I don’t think I will be returning again in the near future.
If you have stuck with me though my reviews of Villa Feltrinelli, Passalacqua and now Reschio and are wondering which one comes out on top… for me, Feltrinelli is number one, with Passalacqua close behind at number two (both are dream properties); Reschio, while beautiful comes in as number three.
I am currently putting together a list of where to go next in Italy, and am happy to take suggestions!