After a brief visit to Florence (which you can read about here) we were off to Montalcino to drink some incredible Brunello di Montalcinos, followed by a visit to Solomeo where we had the chance to meet the one and only Brunello Cucinelli; literally a dream come true.
We are frequent visitors to Montalcino and have a particular favorite winery in the area, Cerbaiona, though I have rarely met a Brunello I don’t like. While Cerbaiona is not open to the public there are many opportunities to visit other wineries, and taste the vintages within the picturesque and tourist friendly town of Montalcino.
As it happens there is no better activity following extensive wine sampling than enjoying a hearty dinner, and Drogheria Franci a family run restaurant, shop and small accommodation located just across from the iconic Fortezza is a perfect place to do so. Franci features delicious food and amenable service, but also an enviable collection of Soldera wine, possibly the most extensive in the world.
We were a large (and somewhat boisterous) group, so we were led to our own private dining area and settled in for a lengthy meal. We ordered a good portion of the menu, and to be honest I think the kitchen lost track of what we actually requested and just randomly started bringing out dishes. We were too deep into the Brunello to really mind, and the service was so earnest and enthusiastic we couldn’t make a fuss. Stuffed with both food and wine we made our way back to the house to rest up for a day of exploration.
Montalcino is a wonderful town to investigate, and the starting point should be L’Oro di Montalcino, an extensive multi-faceted museum complete with interactive displays and religious art located in the center of town. Your ticket of entry even gets you a small sampling of wine at the end.
La Fortezza , the focal point of Montalcino is not only a fort dating back to the 14th century, but also a wine store with an extensive collection of Brunellos (of course!) and shouldn’t be missed if you would like to learn more and possibly ship some wine home.
After extensive wandering we needed sustenance and found our way to a local and authentic lunch spot. Ristorante Il Moro advertises Cucina Locale, just what we were hoping for, perfetto!
We needed a sweet after our delectable Italian lunch and we found some absolutely scrumptious treats at Uova e Farina, where the Ricciarelli alle Mandorle (an almond meringue type cookie) were so good we had to bring a large container home. There are several other not to be missed shopping opportunities in Montalcino including an incredible linen/textile shop Montalcino 564 which literally overflows with tablecloths, scarves, and dish towels that we just couldn’t resist. We were lucky to be assisted by the proprietor Massimo Gorelli who was exceedingly patient as we kept having him pull and unfold different options. Another shop that shouldn’t be be missed is Farmacia Salvioni 1905 which carries a vast assortment of Italian beauty creams and scents as well as a traditional pharmacy in the back. It was a terrific opportunity to stock up on my fave Santa Maria Novella products (their Idralia moisturizer is the best) as well as some Etro hairbands.
Like all Italian cities and towns there is outstanding gelato outpost, and in Montalcino the spot is the Gelateria Why Not , a very tiny shop at the curve of the road. I opted for dark chocolate and stracciatella, amazing!
As we were staying in a private residence in Montalcino rather than a hotel we were able to arrange for a chef to come in and prepare dinner for us on our second (and last) evening there. After some lengthy research we decided to hire Chef Hiro, who along with his wife prepared and served us a truly remarkable dinner. Following extensive back and forth between he and I we settled on a menu that checked many boxes, heavy on veggies and gluten free for me as well as lots of pasta and meat options for the others. It was both memorable and mouthwatering. If you happen to be renting in the Montalcino area and need a special meal, Chef Hiro is who you should call. As an added bonus the kitchen was left spotless when they were finished, a total indulgence.
Keeping with the Brunello theme, our next experience was truly exceptional, our small group was able to pay a visit to the idyllic world of Brunello Cuccinelli at the Cuccinelli headquarters in Solomeo. Just as Brunello di Montalcino is the king of Italian wine, Brunello Cuccinelli is the king of Italian fashion, truly a superstar.
The first thing I noticed upon entering the headquarters/workroom area was that every single person present was attractive and well-dressed in a Cuccinelli approved neutral palate. It is also light, bright and peaceful; an ideal working environment.
While a visit to the small town of Solomeo is available to all, access to the Headquarters is a super special opportunity for which we have our friends to thank. Since we were their guests on this adventure we were able to meet with senior staff, including Brunello himself, get an inside tour of all the different departments where the magic happens, as well as enjoy lunch in the gorgeous gourmet “lunchroom” complete with house wine and olive oil. As ardent fans of fashion, this was truly nirvana.
Following the tour of the workshops we were off to explore the fantasy-like town that Cuccinelli has created for the people who work for him and are responsible for producing the ultra high end fashion and homewares that we know and love. The renovation of Solomeo has been a decades long project and features gathering places, a church, a library, a theater, an amphitheater and much more. It is so perfect in every way I can only compare it to Disney World; every detail is carefully considered and refined until the presentation is ideal. Words aren’t really sufficient, so hopefully the photos will do it justice.
Its not often someone can pull off a full blown tribute to oneself which doesn’t come across as too narcissistic; this is one of those times. The fact that Solomeo is not only a celebration of himself and his successes, but a gift to the people who helped him attain such lofty heights somehow tempers the egotistical aspect of it.
This library is dreamy, but I believe a new and larger one is in the works.
Lunch was of course as marvelous as you might expect. All of the employees have access to this “cafeteria” though many choose to go home midday and dine with their families. Mealtime is sacred and respected in Italy!
As you would expect there is a Cuccinelli “outlet” store in Solomeo that features many looks from the latest season at slightly discounted prices. Sadly, our magical Brunello experience was coming to a close, our only consolation being that we were heading to Castello di Reschio for the last few days of our trip.
