A quick stop in Florence

We literally touched down in Florence for 18 hours on our way to Tuscany, just enough time to delight in some fabulous scenery, a touch of shopping and some incredible gelato. We were invited by friends to stay the night at Palazzo Tornabuoni, a spectacular historic membership based residence located in what is arguably the best location in all of Florence. We were fortunate enough to stay here several years ago, and happily returned for a second visit.

While some of the apartments are individually owned, there are others that function more like hotel rooms where members (or their guests) can stay and avail themselves of all Florence has to offer. The Palazzo is managed by the Four Seasons, and aside from the beauty and functionality of the accommodations, the concierge team was absolutely top-notch, handling many requests for me with ease. You would be surprised how many requests I threw at them for such a short stay, but they were able to book both our transfers, dinner, and most importantly a blow-out in my room early on Monday morning.

Our apartment (and it truly was a fully functioning apartment) was beautiful with all of the comforts you could dream of including a streamlined kitchen fully stocked with dishes, cookware, and of course wineglasses; a dining room with space for guests, and a lovely bedroom with beautiful views.

During our last visit we were fortunate to stay in a an apartment in the historic Palazzo which consisted of multiple bedrooms and spectacular frescoes, but this one suited our needs perfectly for this very brief stay.

As we had such limited time in Florence, we left our luggage and headed out to meet some friends for lunch, but not before I dashed into Pucci to take stock of what was new and try on a couple of things. Sadly almost immediately my husband received a text that we had to get to the restaurant ASAP as our friends were valiantly trying to protect the table and needed back-up. Rushing off, I vowed to return later.

Once we arrived at the “restaurant” I understood the urgency, the Alimentari Uffizi is a tiny family run establishment that was packed with people enjoying generous servings of cheese and charcuterie, which when paired with local (very fresh) wine made for a delicious repast. The restaurant is not much more than a deli with some make-shift seating but it has a very loyal and enthusiastic following. Our friends have made it their local spot in Florence and we can see why.

Happily tipsy and filled with delicious nibbles we did some shopping, I did not make it back to Pucci but instead had terrific success in other boutiques, in particular one called TACS which features woolen coats and jackets in a rainbow of colors manufactured in Florence. The combination of chic design and insanely low prices made us grateful to our very chic friend who passed along the tip.

Thankfully the shop was just around the corner from the Palazzo so we were able to drop our very large jacket-filled bags and continue on our way. Following a tip from the doorman we headed towards what he promised would be the most delicious gelato in Florence, La Sorbettiera, and he was spot on. As we caught sight of the large crowd spilling out of the small shop we knew we were in the right place, and the fact that the majority of them were chatting in Italian was a good sign. As we finally got to the head of the line I opted for a flavor that was new to me, Timballino (Florentine custard, chocolate and hazelnuts), along with my tried and true extra dark chocolate. There were no stabilizers in this artisanal gelato, it started melting as soon as we got outside which meant we had to devour it quickly, not a challenge as it was amazing!! Even my husband who doesn’t love gelato like I do finished off his salted caramel before I could have a proper taste. I believe there are several locations in Florence, if you find yourself remotely close to one, make the detour!

Taking advantage of the gorgeous day we continued exploring without a particular agenda. The beauty of Florence is that it is so small you can really cover a lot of ground in a short time.

The city was not completely overrun with tourists as is often the case, though as the summer progresses it will surely get worse; all the more reason to travel in late Spring.

We ran into some roadblocks when trying to book our dinner as our stay fell on a Sunday night. My all time favorite Trattoria Sostanza happens to be closed on Sundays as were my second, third and fourth choices. As an aside, if you are visiting Florence any day but Sunday be sure to reserve Sostanza, it is divine, especially their butter chicken and wild strawberry meringue cake.

I wanted casual so with help from the concierge at the Palazzo we decided to book Osteria dei Pazzi (which happened to be open on Sundays). The restaurant is indeed casual, and it was almost completely full when we arrived, primarily with Italians, but a spattering of Americans as well. I was told Florentine beef was the specialty of the house, but was led to believe there was plenty for me to eat as well. Unfortunately, as it happened they did not have any salad (it was Sunday and they are closed on Monday was their excuse) or gluten free pasta (regrettably sometimes they have it, but not on Sunday when it is so busy in the restaurant ). Ah well, our server tried to console me with a lovely artichoke starter as well as some vegetable side dishes; I felt quite virtuous as my husband enjoyed his pasta and steak. The restaurant was fine, but I would not recommend.

Following dinner we hoped to have another taste of gelato at Vivoli, the world renowned shop that is located steps away from Osteria dei Pazzi, but alas they were closed as they shut down early on Sundays!

We strolled back to the Palazzo, and considered a nightcap, but we decided to go straight to bed. In the morning we returned to the lounge to take advantage of the cappuccinos and light breakfast items available to members and guests daily.

Prior to our departure I brought my café up to the room where a very capable hairdresser paid me a visit and expertly styled my hair. Ultimately we were heading to Tuscany with a driver who would make a quick stop at The Mall, a collection of outlet stores featuring all of the best Italian designers. If you love to shop this detour should be high on your list. The strong dollar coupled with terrific prices plus the VAT refund is a recipe for success. The merchandise is from past seasons, not items specifically made to be sold at the outlets as is often the case in the US. We allotted ourselves 90 minutes, but in truth could have spent quite a bit longer.

Luckily our driver stayed close by as he was able to continually collect our packages, loading them into the back of the car so we could shop unencumbered. To my husband’s relief shopping time was over and it was time to head to Montalcino, the gorgeous hilltop town where red wine is often easier to find than water.

Our abbreviated trip to Florence was very enjoyable, though we certainly could have benefitted from more time there. As I mentioned, if we had reason to travel there more frequently I would absolutely consider an investment in the Palazzo Tornabuoni, it is the best of all worlds, a luxurious residence in the very best part of the city with no stress or headaches, just pure fun.

Stay tuned for a report from Tuscany!

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