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Passalacqua literally burst onto the luxury hotel landscape in 2022 and achieved the unthinkable, they were ranked the best hotel in the world just one year later. Can Passalacqua possibly be that good? I had to find out for myself, a mission I happily looked forward to undertaking. Following a fantastic visit to Lake Garda’s Villa Feltrinelli (which you can read about here) we made our way to Lake Como to experience it firsthand. One thing I knew in advance of our visit, Passalacqua has the advantage of being owned and run by Valentina De Santis who is also in charge of the Five Star Grand Hotel Tremezzo and has spent her entire life in the hotel world, so she knows what she is doing. We had hired a car to drive us between Lake Garda and Lake Como, about a 2 1/2 hour drive, and pulled into the gates of Passalacqua mid-afternoon. We quickly took stock of about a thousand perfect details knowing we would have to examine them more closely after check-in.

After an effusive greeting by a very exuberant and exceedingly friendly receptionist we were given the good news that we had received an upgrade, and she was anxious to show us to our room. As you might expect from the number one hotel in the world Passalacqua is exceedingly pricy, with rates peaking both in season, and also on the weekend so be mindful of when you book. Our reservation was on a peak weekend so the rates were high. We had chosen a lake front suite, so we weren’t sure what our upgrade could possibly be, but the receptionist was practically giddy as she led us up the main staircase.

“Welcome to the Bellini Suite” she said as she opened the door, smiling broadly. When perusing rooms prior to booking I had noticed the Bellini Suite, otherwise known as the Presidential Suite, but obviously dismissed it as a bit excessive, though we were certainly happy to accept it as un upgrade. Please see below for photos and video which capture mere aspects of the grand set of rooms, each one more stunning than the next.

The opulent Suite is named for Vincenzo Bellini, the famed opera composer who actually resided in the Villa which is now Passalacqua in the early 1830’s and penned two of his most famous works La Sonnambula and Norma. While we were not moved to compose any operatic masterpieces, we certainly felt fortunate to share such a special aspect of musical history. If you want to dive a bit deeper into Passalacqua’s unique place in Bellini’s life, you can do so here.

Our Suite was literally overflowing with beautiful objects, and we were tempted just to park ourselves there for the entirety of our 48 hour stay, but alas hunger was the motivator to force us to leave and grab lunch overlooking the Lake.

Kudos to Valentina De Santis and her staff for the obsessive attention to detail which is visible in every aspect of Passalacqua. The prevailing vibe at the property is youthful and fun mixed with classic and old world. It is a hard combination to pull off, but they have succeeded. The service is also a blend, formally dressed waiters and waitresses follow all of the proper rules of etiquette while at the same time coming across as friendly and informal. Passalacqua is a refreshing breath of fresh air in a rarefied world of luxury hotels.

Our lunch was delicious, enjoyed with wine and views of the Lake, what could be bad? Gluten free choices were plentiful including some interesting gf breads served just out of the oven.

Although the hotel is just 24 rooms, the patio was quite crowded as I believe that guests at the sister property Grand Tremezzo have the ability to book for lunch or dinner as well. Expect some great people watching, and be sure to be dressed in your Italian best, Passalacqua is filled with fabulous outfits.

Following lunch we set out to discover all the gorgeous public spaces within the Villa, and we were not disappointed. The layering of wallpapers, fabrics and chandeliers as well as all the decorative items appealed to my maximalist aesthetic; minimalists be warned.

More interior shots include a jewel box of a bar which we would visit later for Aperitivo. Rather than a mundane gift shop, Passalacqua features an adorable glass gazebo stocked with well curated goodies to bring home.

Taking advantage of the glorious weather we set off to explore the stunning pool (another place to show off your stylish bathing suits and cover ups). Set alongside the pool is a magical conservatory just waiting for a rollicking cocktail party to take place. Sadly, all was quiet during our stay.

Time was flying during our stay, and we were trying to take advantage of just about all Passalacqua had to offer; in that spirit we signed up for a complimentary wine tasting which featured the sparkling and still wines of Franciacorta. The sommelier was bubbly and young, just like so many of the staff at Passalacqua.

With the wine tasting and then a drink at the bar under our belts it was time for dinner in the Sala Ovale, a beautiful and romantic room. We were grateful to be staying in the Villa rather than either of the alternative accommodations (the Palazzo and the Casa al Lago) as the weather had taken a turn, it was pouring rain. Once we settled in we chose our courses à la carte rather than the tasting menu as we weren’t sure we could handle 5 or 6 courses. The service (once again young and friendly) was enthusiastic with many dishes requiring table-side service. One of the best dishes of the entire trip was the butter drenched pasta with lemon cream and a very hefty dollop of caviar that my husband ordered. I was very happy with my gf pasta topped with a pistachio pesto.

If you want your mouth to water, please click on the video below.

Following the pasta course I opted for fish, a specialty of Lago di Como that required not one but two people to sauce and serve.

Dessert seemed like an impossibility as we were stuffed, but we did manage to nibble on some of the goodies they brought us to close out the meal.

We managed to sleep quite late (for us) and wandered down to breakfast at around 10am. Talk about picture perfect- wow! There were multiple rooms filled with tempting treats, cakes, fruits, incredible cheeses, meats, pastries…. Most impressive to my husband, the bright red Berkel meat slicer that stood at the ready.

Fortified and caffeinated we were off to explore more outside, and we were not disappointed. We found a rose garden tennis courts, Bocce (my husband who is a self proclaimed Bocce champ challenged me to a match, and of course won), as well as highly photogenic chickens and roosters. We also discovered the 4 room Casa al Lago which is stunning, perfect for a family gathering or small celebration. Ultimately we found ourselves crossing under the road in a very atmospheric tunnel to reach the lake, where we parked ourselves for about an hour and read.

These are truly the most gorgeous fowl I have ever seen. I wonder if they know how lucky they are to be living at Passalacqua?

Next activity? Lounging poolside while enjoying lunch and a Spritz- literally il dolce far niente, the art of doing nothing.

Having heard Cernobbio was worth a visit we requested a ride in to town so we could check it out. Easier said than done; I had assumed the hotel had a car for the short trip, but in fact a car service had to be called to bring us there. The town is quite compact, and the one attraction I would have liked to visit, the Villa Bernasconi, was closed. In my opinion, if you are visiting Passalacqua for just a couple of days, its not worth the effort. We did catch a ferry back to the hotel rather than call for the car, and that was fun. The hotel is a quick walk (uphill) from the ferry dock and it was interesting to approach it from the back.

Instead of dining in house for dinner we ventured down the road about 5 minutes (on foot) to a very unassuming family establishment that dates back to 1882, Crotto Valdurino. If you haven’t followed me for long it may surprise you that I am just as happy going family-run casual as I am going super fancy. It turned out that just after we arrived for dinner the entire restaurant filled up with local couples and families and we had a tasty meal. My polenta in particular was excellent, but the small lake caught fish were quite sad and scrappy. I should have just stuck to the buttery cheesy polenta. My husband had more luck with his main.

And just like that… it was time to have breakfast and bid farewell to Passalacqua. If you are a design lover and want to live La Dolce Vita, than this hotel is for you.

Is it the best hotel in the world? Its pretty fantastic, but there are a few things that keep it from overtaking Villa Feltrinelli which currently ranks as number one in my heart. While the staff is young and enthusiastic they are not quite as polished or professional as the staff at Feltrinelli. The food is beautifully presented and very tasty (the cheese selection at breakfast is outstanding) but I feel Feltrinelli enjoys a slight advantage there as well. Of course our suite was absolutely beyond, but in truth the vibe at Feltrinelli is more my speed.

When discussing travel, Passalacqua is on the wishlist of all my younger friends, primarily those in their 30s. It may be that the informality of Passalacqua is more attractive to them rather versus the formality of Feltrinelli which so appeals to me (I am in my 50s). In a word I think Villa Feltrinelli is authentic luxury where as Passalacqua seems a little like a stage set coming to life. In any case, both properties are worth the splurge, they just have different auras. Stay tuned, next stop is Florence!

Ciao Passalacqua, I hope to see you again!